North and South Korea may be separated by a heavily fortified border, but there’s a culinary link that defies that separation. In fact, there are many types of North Korean foods that are popular in South Korea, and dumplings are one of them. Korean dumplings share a similar shape with Chinese jiaozi and baozi, as well as Japanese gyoza, and are all referred to as mandu in Korea. Due to the colder climate, rice cultivation is less viable in North Korea, leading to a greater reliance on flour- and buckwheat-based dishes. Mandu, made from wheat flour dough, is a staple food in the north, typically larger, more rustic, and filled with a generous mixture of tofu and mung bean sprouts. Compared to South Korean mandu, North Korean-style dumplings are known for being milder and more comforting.
In the heart of Seoul’s Gwanghwamun area – where cultural heritage sites like Gyeongbokgung Palace coexist with bustling business districts and trendy restaurants – there is a place dedicated to preserving the traditional flavors of Pyeongan-do, a region in present-day North Korea. True to its name, Pyeongando Mandujip specializes in authentic Pyeongan-do style mandu. In South Korea today, there are still many people whose parents or grandparents fled their hometowns in North Korea due to the war. Owner Kim Myong-won’s parents were originally from Pyeongan-do, and along with his wife, Bang Hae-sook, he learned to appreciate and recreate the flavors of the dishes commonly served at his family’s table, eventually opening the restaurant to share these traditional tastes with others.
Pyeongando Mandujip first opened in Yeouido before relocating to Gwanghwamun in 2005, where it embarked on a new chapter and became a well-loved establishment. Every morning at 6:30 a.m., the restaurant’s team gathers to make mandu by hand. Kim Myong-won prepares the filling, while Bang Hae-sook kneads the dough and lets it rest overnight: the ingredients are only flour, water, and time.
For solo diners, mandu-guk (dumpling soup) is an excellent choice. The rich broth, simmered with brisket, is deeply flavorful. The same brisket, shredded and seasoned with a hint of spice, is used as a garnish. Tearing into a dumpling with a spoon and enjoying it with a sip of hot broth allows the delicate flavors of tofu, beef broth, and vegetables to meld harmoniously.
The crispy bindaetteok (mungbean pancake) is another favorite at Pyeongando Mandujip. Made in the traditional North Korean style using 100 percent mung beans, it is fried in a mixture of oil and lard, creating a delightful contrast between its crisp exterior and soft, fluffy interior. Surprisingly, this pancake is also incorporated into the restaurant’s signature mandu jeongol (dumpling hot pot).
Mandu jeongol, designed to be eaten among two to four people, features large dumplings simmered alongside fresh vegetables and chewy beef tendon and brisket, and here includes the addition of small bindaetteok and fish jeon. In Korea, jeon (savory fritters) are traditionally eaten on holidays, and leftovers are often added to stews. Pyeongando Mandujip’s jeongol offers a taste of this comforting tradition, an ideal pairing for soju.
These days, Kim Jean, the restaurant’s future second-generation owner, works alongside her parents, arriving at dawn to make dumplings and staying late into the evening. Despite years of eating mandu, she remains passionate about the dish, still believing that the dumplings she has enjoyed since childhood are the best meal she could ask for.
When asked how to best enjoy the dumplings, Kim Jean simply recommends eating them as they are. However, she also shares a hidden menu tip for regulars: the kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew) at the bottom of the menu can be served fully cooked in a bowl or, for larger groups, as a simmering hot pot similar to the mandu jeongol. Regular customers will order half a plate of mandu to add to their kimchi jjigae, creating their own kimchi mandu jeongol, making it a great option for those who enjoy a spicy kick.
The regular dumplings at Pyeongando Mandujip arrive in the steaming beef broth, offering a moment of warmth and simplicity in a world filled with bold, overwhelming flavors. At first glance, they may not be as striking as the fiery, spice-laden menu options, but once you’ve experienced their subtle charm, the memory of their delicate tofu filling will have you coming back for more. In the midst of a fast-paced city, Pyeongando Mandujip provides a bite of calm and nostalgia – one delicious mandu at a time.
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