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December 12, 2018

Best Bites 2018: Tokyo

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Tokyo --

This was a year of culinary highs for sure, one that involved freshwater eel, lamb ramen, sake and more. Kyuri Cucumbers at Sobaya Nicolas Following a visit to Kyoto’s Nishiki Market, I felt myself yearning for local kyo yasai, vegetables from the Kansai region of Japan. That night we were invited by a local artisan for a Michelin-starred soba meal at Sobaya Nicolas, a much-lauded eatery far from the crowded streets of central Kyoto. A great soba restaurant is judged not only by the quality of soba and sauces, but also by the side dishes accompanying the soba. The salvo of opening appetizers at Sobaya Nicolas included red Kyoto miso nestled alongside crunchy local Japanese kyrui cucumbers for swiping through it. The dish reminded me that often the simplest foods offer the greatest brilliance. Obana There are dishes we dream about and then there are dishes that make us feel as if we’re dreaming. Obana’s umaki, unagi (freshwater) eel tucked inside an ethereal egg omelet, always feels like a waking dream of savory umami bliss. True, the trek to Obana on the outskirts of Tokyo is long. Yes, so is the line for a table. But both are worth it every time I go. The egg omelet is otherworldly, and Obana’s charcoal-grilled eel is considered by Tokyo aficionados to be the best. This year I visited with friends and we ordered a second round of umaki to have with sake as we waited for them to prepare our main dish of unagi over rice. – Fran Kuzui Mensho Tokyo It is with great sadness that I write this: I realize that it’s been over nine months since my last visit to Mensho Tokyo and that is far too long. I last found myself wedged at a table in this experimental ramen joint on February 14th for what I now know is called a “Galentine’s” date. I befriended my dining companion in that very store on that very day three years earlier: we had both gone to try their chocolate ramen, a limited-edition dish that changes every year but always seems to leave customers with heart-shaped eyes. Mensho Tokyo is unique in that it offers lamb ramen – lamb being a general rarity in Japan. You can choose between lamb-tonkotsu (pork) or lamb-niboshi (sardine broth), although I’ve only ever opted for the former, and I always drink the rich soup down to the very last drop. There is also a foamy aromatic lamb tantanmen ramen option that you definitely should try. Yes, you want the extra tender lamb slices as a topping, and you probably want the lamb gyoza (dumplings), too. This spot is the brainchild of “hyper ramen creator” Tomoharu Shono, who now owns several stores with unique concepts and menus across Tokyo, and has also launched ventures in Bangkok and San Francisco. I’ve yet to try them all, but there’s still time yet. Kiyoi 2018 was the year that I could finally call myself a sake fan, though I am still a long way from being anything close to knowledgeable. I love nothing more than to stumble into tiny sake bars and strike up a conversation with the staff and customers. Kiyoi enticed me in with its modern pale-wood front, cozy-looking interior and large dishes lined up along the counter – a scene reminiscent of a tapas bar. Close to my workplace, it’s a space where I can settle myself down, relax and tuck into some home-style cooking. The dishes are simple but always delicious, from lightly stewed chicken to simmered pumpkin or tofu. These are naturally accompanied by a well-matched sake, recommended either by Yuri, who opened the bar last year, or Tomomi, a sake consultant. Sake is served by the glass and often with debate on the side: Kiyoi is a place where aficionados of the drink freely bandy around opinions and advice. On my first visit, a middle-aged chap, outraged by my stated preference, sent me a contrasting cup to change my mind. On my latest visit, the bar erupted on discovering that I’m British, led by one gentleman waxing lyrical about “Sex Pistols” and “The Beatles.” Fortunately, karaoke was spared until next time. Sushi Kinoshita I have a secret that shocks and horrifies many of my overseas friends who are envious of my Japan food life: I am completely ambivalent towards sushi. In fact, if there’s a choice between sushi and something else, I’m likely to opt for that “else.” Yet at Sushi Kinoshita, which opened in June 2018 under the supervision of the master chef of three-star Sushi Yoshitaki, sushi nears its zenith, where its flavor and texture melts my cold heart and brings tears to my eyes – although I should point out that the price is also eye-watering. Hidden within a nondescript apartment building in Nishi Azabu, Sushi Kinoshita can only be entered by pressing a buzzer and announcing yourself over the intercom, as if you were popping round a friend’s for dinner. The interior, however, is as exquisite as the series of artworks that will be served to you. A counter of just eight seats frames the kitchen space, putting head chef Junichi Sato, and his team, in the spotlight as they work. The dishes are too numerous to list; the debate over our favorites meandering. But one moment stays with me in particular: a moment of stillness as the chutoro maguro (medium-fatty tuna) dissolved on my tongue. Sushi Kinoshita is probably heading for the stars, so go now and say you visited before the hype. Emilia/Daniela There are complaints that the Michelin Guide to Tokyo overly favors Japanese and French cuisine, neglecting the city’s worthy Italian food scene, and I’m inclined to agree. Emilia and its sister store, Daniela, at the very least deserve a Bib Gourmand. Their “menu piccolo” is a steal at 1,400 yen for homemade pasta, homemade bread and a coffee, but I never regret the larger menu with a small starter and dessert thrown in. The appetizer is a build-your-own mini sandwich with a slice of salami, dash of cream cheese and salad. This remarkably simple yet impactful dish sets the tone for what’s to come: fresh pasta that will whisper to you in your dreams, regardless of whether you’re a carboholic or not. I always go with a willing partner in greed: we share a seasonal pasta and my true addiction, the black truffle tajarin, where the truffle is grated into thin slices that rain down upon the butter-soaked, perfectly textured pasta before my ever-widening eyes. This dish costs a supplement but comes with no regrets, only blissful memories and a mildly guilty feeling that life shouldn’t be this deliciously good. – Phoebe Amoroso

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Best Bites 2018: Tokyo

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Sobaya Nicolas: 35.031303, 135.746989
Obana: 35.731625, 139.796841
Mensho Tokyo: 35.708323, 139.751436
Kiyoi: 35.661731, 139.696436
Sushi Kinoshita: 35.662169, 139.726024
Emilia: 35.674312, 139.710611
Daniela: 35.657081, 139.666384
 
Sobaya Nicolas Address: Itsutsujicho, 69-3, Kyoto, 602-8446 Telephone: +81 75 431 7567 Hours: Thurs.-Tues. 11:30-am-2:30pm & 5:30-9pm; closed Wednesday
 
Obana Address: 33-1, 5 Chome Minamisenju, Tokyo, 116-0003 Telephone: +81 3 3801 4670 Hours: Tues.-Sun. 11:30am-1:30pm & 4-7:30pm; closed Monday Cash only
 
Mensho Tokyo Address: 1 Chome-15-9 Kasuga, Bunkyō, Tokyo, 112-0003 Telephone: +81 3 3830 0842 Hours: Weds.-Mon. 11am-3pm & 5-11pm; closed Tuesday
 
Kiyoi Address: 36-16, Udagawacho, Shibuya Telephone: +81 3-6427-0748 Hours: Variable, usually Tues.–Fri. 5:30-11pm
 
Sushi Kinoshita Address: 2F Room 203, 1-4-46 Nishiazabu Minatoku, Tokyo Telephone: +81 3 6434 7353 Hours: Tues.-Sun. 6-11pm; closed Monday
 
Emilia Address: 2 Chome-25-4 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0005 Telephone: +81 3 3402 5517 Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10:30pm
 
Daniela Address: 5 Chome-16-23 Daizawa, Setagaya, Tokyo 155-0032 Telephone: +81 3 3487 6086 Hours: Tues.-Weds. & Fri.-Sun. 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10:30pm; closed Monday and Thursday

Read more
Tokyo -- This was a year of culinary highs for sure, one that involved freshwater eel, lamb ramen, sake and more.

Kyuri Cucumbers at Sobaya Nicolas

Following a visit to Kyoto’s Nishiki Market, I felt myself yearning for local kyo yasai, vegetables from the Kansai region of Japan. That night we were invited by a local artisan for a Michelin-starred soba meal at Sobaya Nicolas, a much-lauded eatery far from the crowded streets of central Kyoto. A great soba restaurant is judged not only by the quality of soba and sauces, but also by the side dishes accompanying the soba. Read more
December 11, 2018

Best Bites 2018: Shanghai

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Shanghai -- Shanghai usually opts for trendy over traditional, and 2018 was no different. Dining and drinking “hotspots” tended to appear in the slew of newly-opened ultra-lux five-star hotels, including the Middle House, Edition, Sukkothai and BVLGARI hotels, to name just a few. In the everyday budget range, we’re still seeing mom-and-pop shops struggle to survive the tight real estate market and licensing battles with city officials. Read more
December 10, 2018

Best Bites 2018: Tbilisi

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Tbilisi -- Editor’s note: We’re celebrating another year of excellent backstreets eating by taking a look back at our favorite restaurants and dishes of 2018. Starting things off is a dispatch from our Tbilisi bureau chief Paul Rimple. Read more