Oaxaca is a city in the southern region of Mexico, six hours south of Mexico City. It is in a valley surrounded by different mountain chains that go all the way through the country to the Pacific Ocean. This particular geography makes it the culinary heart of the country, as the mountains hold different landscapes with all sorts of climates. It is also the birthplace of some of the most respected Mexican painters and politicians.

One of the most famous dishes in Oaxaca city is Tlayuda It is a crispy, 30-cm folded crispy tortilla with black bean paste, string cheese, cabbage, avocado, salsa and grilled meat (beef or chorizo) and pork lard (both of which are optional). Mornings cannot go by without a hot water chocolate with a piece of egg yolk bread and some memelas, enfrijoladas or entomatadas. Oaxaca is also famous for its seven varieties of mole, which you should definitely try, at least the yellow, the black and the green one. Make sure to add snacks in between meals: some plain grasshoppers and roasted garlic with a glass of beer or a mezcal. The sherbet-like ice creams and fruit-flavored waters are always a good option on spring and summer days.

Same as Mexico City: visa-free for 180 days with FMM. Fly into OAX airport direct from Houston or Dallas, or connect through CDMX

Although the center of Oaxaca is mostly flat, with the exception of the steep streets surrounding it, the city is not very stroller-friendly. It does have an interesting offer of libraries for children and a couple of plazas and parks that have space for kids to run, or enjoy the small but lovely public playground. High seasons (Holy Week, Guelaguetza, Day of the Dead and Christmas) can get extremely crowded, but the rest of the year the amount of people walking and enjoying the city is far from overwhelming.

Oaxaca city is most famous for mezcal, food, art and the impressive diversity of indigenous cultures and languages, as it is the most diverse state in the country. It also has some impressive desert-like landscapes like the petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua, which are a type of mineral hot spring. Its historic sights trace the story of the city, from the native old ones like Mitla and Monte Alban, to the impressive baroque colonial churches, like Santo Domingo. In Oaxaca, celebrations are an everyday thing. The city is always witness to parades and musical performances, all of which is complemented by the bohemian ambiance found in the streets all day long. Nightlife can be even more lively, with dancing and art events spiced by the flavors of mezcal.

The best time to visit Oaxaca City is August to February. This long period of the year is ideal at any point, as Oaxaca seems to live under a perpetual spring. August is warm and fresh with rain, while autumn (September-December) and winter (January-February) have lovely weather with sunny days that aren’t too hot, and cool nights.

The state of Oaxaca has breathtaking beaches that open into the Pacific Ocean. Warm emerald waters wait for you at the end of a windy road of dreamy cloud forests. Some of of these beautiful tropical spots are Puerto Escondido, Huatulco, San Agustinillo and Mazunte. You can get to many of these in 6 hours by car or 8-12 hours by public transport. There are also a couple of direct 30-min flights in a small airplane, but tickets’ prices can fluctuate considerably due to the scarce offer vs demand. Another good option is to fly to the Oaxacan coast directly from Mexico City.

Generally, the climate in Oaxaca City is sunny and dry, with some windy afternoons almost all year long. In autumn, the weather is sunny and slightly more humid, and temperatures range from 70 to 55 F. While winters can be a bit cool, it’s still sunny – not so different from autumn. Summers are more humid, and we can have some heavy rains or spontaneous but intense showers. Summers are hot if there isn’t enough rainfall. If going during March to early June, we recommend taking an umbrella or a hat, or anything that will protect you from the sun, as well as sunblock and clothes that will keep you cool.

Tlayuda with tasajo or cecina, a full mole plate, tejate (the Zapotec cacao-corn drink), chapulines (grasshoppers), memelas, empanadas de amarillo, and mezcal, always mezcal, sipped slowly from a jícara, never shot

In general, Oaxaca is a very safe city. Like in any place in the world, if you are not looking after your belongings or you are displaying expensive photographic equipment, you can always get undesired attention. In general people are friendly and a smile and polite words will always get you far.

The Historic Center and the neighborhoods of Jalatlaco and Xochimilco are the best areas to stay in Oaxaca City when you are visiting for the first time. They are close to most restaurants, shops, cafes, historical sites, galleries and nightlife, and they are well connected in terms of transportation. However, if you are acquainted with the city, you might want to explore the northern areas of San Felipe and Colonia Reforma. These two neighborhoods are quieter than the centro and have interesting markets and spots to explore. San Felipe is closer to nature and a lot of people often rent cars to move across the city. Colonia Reforma has the best of two worlds: It is close enough to the center, but also close enough to San Felipe’s green areas and main routes to some of the most interesting villages and nature around the city.

Prices in Oaxaca are usually lower than in big American cities, though this varies widely. Markets are cheaper than touristic or high-end places. The average price of a 3-star hotel is about $50, a cup of coffee or beer under $2, and a sit-down dinner can run anywhere from $12-50. The street food offer, for example, is superb, and prices are considerably lower than restaurants. While the historic center of Oaxaca is relatively small and most things are within walking distance, taxi fares start at a minimum of $3.

All three. Solo travelers do brilliantly at the two central markets and any late-night mezcalería. Families are welcomed and Oaxaca is a gentle-paced city for kids, with lots of hands-on experiences (chocolate workshops, tortilla lessons). Groups of six to ten are the classic Oaxaca size, a full mole spread with mezcal is meant for a table.

See CDMX. Short version: Oaxaca is the deepest single-region cuisine in Mexico, CDMX is where every region converges. Oaxaca is the pilgrimage, CDMX is the survey

It is relatively easy to fly into Oaxaca City, it all depends on your origin city. While there are direct flights from Houston, Dallas and Los Angeles, most international flights require connections through a bigger city. You can either fly into Merida, Cancun, Guadalajara or Mexico City, and then fly directly to Oaxaca. Make sure to check the flights, as some of these destinations only offer one direct flight into Oaxaca. Once in Oaxaca’s airport, the best way to go to the city is by either the collective airport shuttle or in private taxis. You will find them waiting for the passengers right in the parking area of the airport.

Options in Oaxaca city are countless, but some of our favorite spots are as follows. For breakfast: the Sanchez Pascuas or the Merced Markets, as well as the Memelas de San Agustin street stall, Pan con Madre and Oscuro Brebaje Café. Lunch can be super exciting if you make sure to visit Levadura de Olla, or a great lunch street stall, the tacos del Carmen. For dinner, make sure to visit Ancestral, Origen, or Crudo.

Culinary Backstreets runs two tours in Oaxaca. The Late Shift: Tasting Oaxaca, By Night explores the city's evening food and mezcal culture, when the second wave of eating kicks in. Earth, Corn and Fire: Tasting the Roots of Oaxacan Cuisine is a full-day walk through the mercados (20 de Noviembre and Benito Juárez) and neighborhood kitchens where masa, mole, and mezcal are made the way they've been made for generations.

Four to five days. One for the city center and mercados, one for Central Valleys villages (Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula on Sundays, Villa de Etla for barbacoa), one for a mezcal palenque tour, one for a chocolate and mole workshop, one to rest.

Mole negro (the most famous, dark and complex, chocolate-tinged), mole rojo, mole amarillo, mole verde, mole coloradito, mole chichilo, and manchamanteles. Each village and family has its own version. Try at least three during a visit.