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May 29, 2019

Guga Kotetishvili: Tbilisi’s Wizard of Comfort

Tbilisi -- In 2001, new to Tbilisi, we asked our friend Anna where the hip went to sip. Surely, there has to be a bar or cafe where the local Bohemians go to pose. “No,” she replied. “Our artists have no money for bars. They just hang out in each other’s homes.” Read more
Tbilisi -- There was a large table made from a huge buzzsaw blade, covered in Russian and Western photo magazines. A greasy boombox played jazz, blues and classic rock cassettes. Behind the high wooden counter was a somber, dark-haired young woman who served semi-cold Argo beer for 3 lari a bottle and a simple lunch for a few lari more. We had found our watering hole.

Apollo had been designed by local artist Guga Kotetishvili, a name we wouldn’t know until 2004, when he helped two young Apollo regulars auspiciously launch an entrepreneurial gastro-dominion with the opening of Cafe Kala on Erekle II Street, a narrow, 100-meter lane in Old Town. Back then, there was nothing else on the street.Read more
May 25, 2019

Georgian tea from Guria in Tbilisi

BACKSTREET FEED -- West Georgia's climate is ideal for tea, and Georgia has been producing high quality tea since 1847. On our Old Market & Beyond culinary walk in Tbilisi, we get a chance to see, smell and taste fine samples of tea and other delicacies in the Dezerter's Bazaar - the Georgian capital’s largest and oldest open-air marketplace.Feed more
May 18, 2019

Retro: Maestro of Khachapuri

Tbilisi -- There was a dowdy little joint in Batumi, Georgia’s Black Sea port town, where two middle-aged women churned out the most exquisite Adjarian-style khachapuri pies in an old pizza oven. It was a must-stop for every trip to the coast, as there were few places in Tbilisi that could scorch such an authentic acharuli. Read more