With its sloping streets and large, narrow buildings on the outskirts of the city, the Sant Gervasi-Galvany area once served as the site for the summer houses of the 19th-century Barcelonean bourgeoisie. These days, among a seemingly infinite number of cute little shops and kids running around dressed in private-school uniforms, Sant Gervasi-Galvany is a densely woven fabric of office buildings, top medical clinics, consulates, advertising agencies, extravagant cultural spaces, art galleries, decadent old mansions and an assortment of lovely gardens like the Turó Park, Monterols or Moragues. Between a steady demand from locals willing to spend their money in gourmet shops and office workers ready to pay a bit more for really good meals come lunchtime, the neighborhood is also a top-tier food destination.
Sant Gervasi-Galvany is the lower side of the old rural village of Sant Gervasi de Cassoles, incorporated into the city of Barcelona in 1897, the upper side of which is called Gervasi-Bonanova. As a neighborhood, Sant Gervasi-Galvany got its name mostly from its magnificent modernist market and city landmark Mercat Galvany, built from 1868-1927 by Pere Falqués and Antoni Falguera (who also worked on the La Boquería-Sant Josep market). The market was constructed on a big piece of land donated by the rich merchant Josep Castelló i Galvany. Today, the market has a local residential clientele and a modest number of stalls with high quality traditional charcuterie, fish and seafood, produce and butcheries.
Not far from the market we run into one of the best patisseries in the city, the classic Pastisseria Baixas, which has offered pastries, chocolates, brioche and other treats since 1958. Continuing down toward the gardens of Turó Park, we hit another sweet spot or two: Mervier Canal patisserie – winner of the best butter croissant in Spain in 2016, 2019 and 2022 – and the magnificent chocolatier of international fame Oriol Balaguer. Right on the other side of the square is of the most iconic delicatessens around, Semon, opened in 1962, curators of the most succulent baked goods, cheeses, refined charcuterie, conservas and wines, in addition to their hot food to take away and catering services.
Over the years, these old grocery shops have turned into some of the city’s most authentic gems, as we explained in our piece about Colmados – also known in Spain as ultramarinos and, in Catalonia, queviures. In Sant Gervasi-Galvany, one of the newest additions to catch our attention was Colmado Wilmot, opened by chef Eugenio de Diego in 2023, a gourmet space halfway between a grocery, a delicatessen, a bodega (wine cellar) and a small restaurant open from breakfast to dinner, and, yes, where it’s best to make a reservation.
Another recent success in the area with a grocery-shop name (and reservation required) is Ultramarinos Marín, from chef Borja García. This eatery has the look of a casual neighborhood tapas bar, but a hidden back room reveals more tables where the kitchen, charcoal grills and oven are part of the ambiance.
We could go on and on in our Sant Gervasi-Galvany culinary crawl, sure not to miss some of the old neighborhood classics – the high quality, traditional cooking at Casa Jordi, the always chic Flash Flash with their amazing Spanish omelets or the fine Catalan cuisine of Fermí Puig. Plus the big stars – Michelin ones that is – like Restaurante Hofmann, of the famous local cooking school; iconic Catalan kitchen – and Dalí favorite – Via Veneto; and Hisop, a minimalist space which brings modern creativity to the table.
There are two things you need to bring to Sant Gervasi-Galvany: a book to read in the neighborhood’s various beautiful gardens and, well, spending money. Then, go explore, and enjoy every bite of this decadent slice of Barcelona
Published on April 08, 2024
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