The morning after a festive night brings familiar symptoms: a throbbing headache, heartburn, perhaps an upset stomach. As people reach for something to soothe their hangover, they take part in a shared experience that transcends borders and cultures, uniting humanity in the eternal quest for the perfect hangover remedy.
Korea has its own iconic day-after-drinking cure: haejangguk, which literally translates to “hangover soup.” It’s a hot, hearty soup filled with meat and vegetables, served with rice. Korean drinkers often joke that the salty, steaming broth pairs perfectly with a shot of soju, leading to the familiar scene of someone drinking soju alongside haejangguk to cure their hangover – only to end up drinking more.
Various soups, from bean sprout soup to pollack broth, can all fall under the category of hangover cures called haejangguk. However, some restaurants specialize solely in a single menu item named haejangguk, using it as the signature dish, each place with its own variation and recipe. Among them, the most famous is found in Cheongjin-dong in Jongno, Seoul. This neighborhood was once known as “Cheongjin-dong Haejangguk Street,” where over a dozen haejangguk restaurants thrived. These places were beloved not only by drinkers nursing a hangover but also by the local community as places to find a warm, affordable meal for anyone seeking comfort. While recent redevelopment has transformed the old familiar alleys into modern offices like the imposing Gran Seoul building, one restaurant maintains this cherished tradition: Cheongjinok.
Founded in 1937 by Lee Gan-nan as Pyeonghwa-gwan, the restaurant adopted its current name in 1945 and has been renowned for its haejangguk ever since. When grandson Choi Jun-yong inherited the family business in 2005, he faced the challenge of relocation due to redevelopment. Determined to preserve Cheongjin-dong’s legacy, he moved twice before settling at the current location at 183-1 Cheongjin-dong. The restaurant’s loyal customers, who had watched Choi grow up, celebrated his success as if it were their own. Today, older regulars marvel at seeing the space filled with young customers, evidence of Cheongjinok’s multi-generational appeal.
The restaurant’s fourth-floor kitchen houses a massive soup cauldron capable of preparing 250 servings at once. Following the original owner’s philosophy of serving hot food whenever customers desire it, the soup traditionally simmered 24/7. While the restaurant now closes at night, it remains open 365 days a year.
What sets Cheongjinok’s haejangguk apart is its unique preparation. Unlike the typically spicy red broth found elsewhere, this version is seasoned solely with doenjang (fermented soybean paste), creating a deep but non-spicy flavor. The beef bone broth contains an abundance of ingredients: cow stomach, brisket, ugeoji (the outer leaves of napa cabbage), and seonji (cooked cow’s blood). The seonji, perhaps the most distinctive ingredient, offers a unique jelly-like texture and iron-rich taste that can only be achieved using fresh blood.
For those who prefer something heartier, there’s also tteok haejangguk, a pricier version with additional slices of meat. Customers who pair their haejangguk with a glass of soju often order a side of assorted jeon (Korean pancakes), including bindaetteok (mung bean pancake), fish jeon, and tonggurutteong (mini pork patties). Another popular choice among soju drinkers is naejang suyuk (boiled sliced intestines), which also includes the stomach found in haejangguk.
The haejangguk is served with a topping of kongnamul (bean sprouts), known for their hangover-relieving properties. Start by savoring the hot, soothing broth with a spoonful of rice, generous portions of intestines, seonji, and ugeoji. If you’re craving a spicier, bolder flavor, simply add some of the spicy sauce or gochugaru (red pepper powder) provided on the side and mix well to transform the broth into a rich, red delight.
Hangover or not, Cheongjinok has been the place to go for a comforting bowl of soup for decades. As for the haejangguk, you’ll have to try it and see for yourself – does it cure your hangover, or does it make you crave another drink? There’s only one way to find out.
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