Very few things in Bilbao are as they used to be. Some old bars, some ancient traditions, a chunk of a medieval wall, a handful of simple dishes. What has held strongest over generations is the intense connection Bilbainos feel to their Basque identity and passion for eating and sharing food with others. The image of local cuadrillas – groups of friends of all ages – eating pintxos and laughing over a glass of txakolí or cider is a daily constant.
Bilbao is a phoenix of urban renewal, rising from a period of industrial decline to become a center of modern Basque cuisine that incorporates global influences with contemporary culinary quirks. Now there is much more than ever to enjoy: diverse restaurants, innovate recipes, both world-class and traditional expertise, local and imported ingredients, creative ideas, and a renewed enthusiasm for food. But this gastronomic personality is always uniquely Basque, built around hearty stews, grilled meats, precious fish and seafood dishes, excellent omelettes, and endless small bites of creativity speared through with a toothpick.
On our latest culinary walk, we offer a mini crash course on the renovated, colorful, and beyond-tasty vibe of our city – and all things Basque. Below, walk through Bilbao with Culinary Backstreets photographer Artiz Tabuyo as he shares his photos from the food tour.
Bilbao is a charismatic city that meanders along with the Nervión estuary. Colorful old and new architecture mingle on the riverbanks, speaking to different moments in the city’s history: economic rise and fall, eras of decadence, and multiple renaissance. The estuary, with its 13 bridges, is the backbone of Bilbao.
Our tour starts in Bilbao’s old town, in front of the iconic San Antón Church, built in the late 15th century and originally connected to the bridge of the same name just in front. From there, we head to a historic central market.
Walking into La Ribera market is like stepping into a giant, collective pantry. What do we have today to cook with? Here, a very busy charcuterie with a variety of cured meats, hams, chorizos, txistorras and more.
Gilda is the VIP of Basque pintxos, made with olives, a slightly spicy piparrak (Basque green pepper), and an anchovy. We try a freshly-prepped gilda at the market, anchovy and all.
We head to an old grocery, Ultramarinos Gregorio Martín, or “La Bacalada de Artecalle,” with its selection of salted and soaked cod, more cured fish, dried legumes, and conservas.
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Yellow legumes for sale at Ultramarinos Gregorio Martín, and salted cod, a symbol of Bilbao and its centenarian cod fishing industry.
The legendary Gilda is named after the 1946 film “Gilda,” starring Rita Hayworth. The pintxo, like the film’s femme fatale, is salty, green, and spicy.
The aroma of grilled beef around the city isn’t unexpected, especially at midday when the numerous asadores (grill houses) start putting txuletas on the fire. This cut of meat can often be seen aging in street-facing window displays.
Bilbao is the capital of pintxos! You will find them everywhere. At Sorgínzulo, the classic kokotxas al pil-pil are displayed near more contemporary squid ink bao stuffed with fried squid as well as old-school tortilla de patatas.
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Photo 1: The Plaza Nueva (New Square) with its characteristic arcades was built in the 19th century in the neoclassical style. It’s a popular meeting spot in the old town, buzzing with pintxos bars and terraces.
Photo 2: One these Plaza Nueva bars is Gure Toki. Its modern pintxos are spectacular.
Photo 3: Our favorite of the contemporary takes at Gure Toki is the Idiazabal cheese soup.
Past and present collide on the streets of Bilbao. Rising from the back, the beautiful old train station La Concordia, built in 1902, is now a metro station. The city has fantastic public transportation, with the modern tram lines zipping past in the foreground.
Delicious ox meat croquettes are a recipe of one of the most famous meat-oriented restaurants in Bilbao. But one secret of the city is a bar near the train station that serves them to take away.
We stop into what might be the best cheese shop in Bilbao. María runs this relatively new project with Virginia, Elian, Eider, and Rebeca – an all-women cheese paradise. We sample Basque artisan cheeses with sourdough bread, walnuts, and some good Basque craft beer.
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Photo 1: Tiny spots, like the aptly named Txintxirri (belly button), are harder for tourists to stumble upon. But we’re happy to point them out as we walk through Bilbao.
Photo 2: This very local pintxo of marinated cod with red hot chilli pepper is a typical find in the traditional bars of Bilbao and surrounding Basque cities.
A popular snack across Spain, the tortilla is a kind of thick omelet made with eggs and potatoes and – depending on who you ask, onions. It’s cooked slowly in olive oil and can be served hot, warm, or cold, any time of day.
Bilbao is known for its contemporary gastronomy, and one of our favorite amongst these is in the Abando neighborhood. The transgenerational clientele come alone or in big groups for a quick, delicious bite or to linger over a long lunch or dinner. Their bestsellers are messy and moreish: smoked grilled tortilla and the most succulent oxtail sandwich.
Some days, we like to end our nonstop food fest on a sweet note. These bollos de mantequilla (butter buns) are some of the most famous pastries in Bilbao. While they’re typically a breakfast pastry that pairs perfect with coffee, we’ll take any excuse to snag a few before planning a night of pintxos and pints…
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