Each Passover, Frédérique makes yabrak, romaine leaves stuffed with herb-infused meatballs. “We only make these boulettes romaines for Pessah,” she explains. “It just doesn’t have the same taste at other times of the year.” In choosing the same dishes each year (as many Jews do), the recipe becomes part of the ritual, transcending beyond mere gustatory pleasure. “Its our madeleine de Proust,” she smiles. Yabrak’s main ingredient, romaine lettuce, is one of the six ingredients on a traditional seder plate. As maror, bitter herbs, they represent the bitterness of slavery that the Jews endured during their sojourn in Egypt. For some Tunisians, romaine isn’t all about hardship. At the end of Passover, “we put romaine leaves on the doors to bring happiness into our home,” explains Frédérique. I find the recipe fitting for Marseille, the romaine lettuce paying homage to our history as part of the Roman Empire.

Serves 4-6 people (18-20 bundles)

2/3 kg (1.5 lbs) ground beef
2 onions, diced
1 bunch each (around 1 cup) of parsley and cilantro, finely chopped
1/3 cup fresh mint, finely chopped
2 eggs
1 large head or 2 medium heads of romaine lettuce (around 18 leaves – use large outer leaves only)
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
1 packet of Spigol (a spice blend of turmeric, paprika, and saffron favored by Sephardic Jews to flavor and color their dishes – order online or substitute with 1 tsp turmeric, ½ tsp paprika and a pinch of saffron instead)
Harissa (optional – can be used in meatballs or as condiment)
Salt and pepper to taste

Step One

Heat large pot of water to blanch romaine leaves. Put onions in a strainer, and sprinkle with salt to let them drain off their liquid while chopping the herbs.

In a large bowl, mix the chopped herbs and the onions with the ground meat. Generously salt and pepper. Add 1-2 tablespoons harissa, if using.

Step Two

Add eggs and mix with your hands until the meat is moist. If the meat mixture still seems dry, Frédérique’s trick is to add a bit of hot water. Soften the romaine leaves so that their spine is pliable and easy to roll. Blanch in boiling water for 1 minute then douse in a bowl of ice water to keep the bright green color. Don’t dry – you need the moisture to roll the leaves. (You can also soften the romaine leaves in the microwave:

Step Three

Rinse leaves, but don’t pat them dry since moisture will soften them. Line a plate with paper towels, then leaves, then paper towels. Microwave 30 seconds, then check. Continue to do so until leaves are soft, but have not shrunk. Put leaves on damp towel or damp wooden cutting board.

Step Four

With a soup spoon, scoop meat into your palm and form into an oval-shaped meatball with your hands. Place at the base of romaine leaf. Roll up the leaf, folding sides towards the meatball as you go to create little packets. Heat a large cocotte or deep saucepan to medium heat. Add olive oil then sauté garlic for 30 seconds. Mix in Spigol (or 1 tsp turmeric, ½ tsp paprika and a pinch of saffron) and a cup of water.

Step Five

Carefully add romaine bundles to the pan – they like to be snug. Add water until it reaches halfway up the bundles. Bring water to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cover pot. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove from cooking liquid and serve over rice, potatoes or solo.