By the Glass: Lisbon’s Best Wine Bars

You don’t have to look far to find a glass of wine in Lisbon. But a unique glass of wine – perhaps something made by a small producer, or a bottle from an obscure region – in a comfortable or perhaps even trendy atmosphere, poured by someone who can explain what you’re drinking? That’s where it gets tough.

But Lisbon can deliver. In recent years, the city has seen an explosion of wine bars. If we broaden the term, these could include restaurants with forward-thinking wine lists such as Insaciável, Senhor Uva, Tati and Sem. But we wanted to focus on venues that, in our opinion at least, prioritize bottles and glasses over plates. So in no particular order, but with a fair amount of editorializing, here’s a list of our favorite Lisbon wine bars:

The Most Popular: Vino Vero

The Lisbon branch of this Venice wine bar is perpetually packed. Even on a Monday night, you’ll struggle to snag a table, and customers spilling out into the alley is standard. Why is Vino Vero so popular? The location – an almost hidden-feeling alleyway in the Graça neighborhood – is charming, but we suspect it’s because it offers a bit of everything: thought-provoking wines, a buzzy vibe, bites, even a resident dog.

To see what’s on offer, look at the walls: three chalkboards (Reds, Whites and Sparkling/Rosé) offer glasses and bottles that are constantly changing. There’s always one or two Portuguese bottles open but also wines from places such as Slovenia, Greece or Georgia in addition to Italy, Spain and France. Staff are happy to provide a taste, although they’re not always able or willing to reveal much about what they’re serving (and, it must be said, some find the by the glass prices here to be high).

The Most Stylish: O Pif

Occupying a corner space in the Anjos ‘hood with vast windows, high ceilings, walls painted Millennial pink and boasting what appears to be a glowing halo, O Pif’s look is bold. Yet perhaps even bolder is the fact that this is a wine bar run by French people who serve exclusively Portuguese wines (how the French government has not yet taken away their passports is a mystery to us).

Helpful staff can aid in navigating bottles and glasses from some of Portugal’s most respected small producers, although you’ll need to go elsewhere if you insist on big pours. A drinking sesh here ends, charmingly, with a tiny glass of Amarguinha, Portugal’s bitter almond liqueur served with a squeeze of lemon juice – think of it as the wine bar equivalent of dessert.

The Most Educational: Black Sheep

Looking for a crash-course in Portuguese wine? Consider a visit to Black Sheep. The staff here really know their stuff, and are enthusiastic and keen to share it with guests. They also just have great taste in wine, and they’re guaranteed to have a delicious glass or bottle you’ve probably never heard of. The only hitch is that it’s tiny – it calls itself Lisbon’s smallest wine bar – and these impromptu lessons mean that guests tend to linger, making bar real estate a precious commodity. Luckily, Black Sheep has recently expanded to take over the space next door. It may not be the same intimate, erudite experience, but at least you’ll get a seat.

The “It” Wine Bar: Ressaca Tropical

Menus are so 2022. Instead, roll into Ressaca Tropical, tell the staff what flavors or aromas you like (or don’t like), and they’ll hook you up with a delicious glass – no reading required. Carlos, the bar’s head sommelier and part-owner, is a terrific guide through the world of contemporary wine. Lisbon wine professionals, restaurant folks and listings mags are all fans, and a downstairs lounge area and occasional DJ events take Ressaca Tropical beyond the usual wine bar tropes.

The One-Stop Shop: Comida Independente

Comida Independente bridges the gap between shop, restaurant and wine bar. But there’s still a distinct emphasis on wine – just look at the shelves, loaded with interesting and delicious small-brand, regional wines from Portugal and elsewhere. Owners who’ve been to just about every vineyard represented, a short but shifting menu of wines by the glass, and occasional tastings and releases are additional markers of its bona-fides.

The Underground: A Viagem das Horas

If you’re searching for a Lisbon chef or restaurant worker on his night off, there’s a good chance he or she can be found clutching a glass at A Viagem das Horas. Owner Ricardo Maneira has a reputation for pricing his bottles fairly, and like his personality, the vibe is cozy and chilled (and his former career as a DJ means that the soundtrack is far better than most). Tasty snacks and occasional food events (we’re sorry to have missed a recent Eritrean dinner) round out the offerings.

The Scrappy Upstart: Pop the Wine

Do you like your wine bars without pretension? Consider Pop the Wine. Roughly the size of a closet, with a vintage bar and a couple stools, two tables and a small shelf of mainly Portuguese, small producer, natural and low-intervention wines, it embodies an almost DIY spirit. There’s art on the wall, snacks include bags of chips or nuts, and a tiny record player belts out vintage jazz or The Doors. It’s like having a fancy glass of wine in your college dorm room, and what could be better?

The Hole in the Wall: Holy Wine

You probably blew by Holy Wine on the tram without even knowing it. If you had stopped, you’d find an almost comically tiny, friendly wine bar with the vibe of a very cool secondhand shop. Sampling is encouraged and obligatory – there’s no menu but there are as many as 20 wines available by the glass – and most likely your glass will be something natural or biodynamic, with skin contact and a relatively high price tag.

Published on August 28, 2023

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