Some recipes are so deeply connected with the region from which they originate that they are simply named after that place. Circassian chicken, an appetizer beloved in Turkey and throughout the Caucasus, is such a dish. The recipe itself takes on many different variations across different geographical locations, much like the mosaic of people and cultures that can be found within the large area in which Circassian chicken is enjoyed.
There is record of the recipe for Circassian chicken entering Ottoman cuisine as early as the year 1859, by way of immigrants and exiles who came from the Caucasus to the Ottoman Empire. Today, the shredded-chicken dish is one of the most popular appetizers in Istanbul, especially in meyhanes (traditional taverns), where it is served cold, as a meze. Its distinctive feature is the abundant use of walnuts, and sometimes even walnut oil.
We visited one such restaurant, Fıccın, an old favorite in Beyoğlu, to see the preparations of the dish in action. Owner Leyla Kılıç opened her business in 1996 on Kallavi Street with one small storefront – now, the restaurant has spread to occupy six buildings up and down the block. Leyla’s family originally migrated from the Caucasus’s North Ossetia to Turkey in 1865. She serves not only traditional Ossetian dishes but also Turkish specialties. Whether it’s the nostalgia of Beyoğlu, or the welcoming attitude of Leyla and her sister Süheyla, or the flavors which remain unchanged throughout the years, Fıccın exudes a feeling of home and is the perfect introduction to Circassian cuisine.
“In Circassian cuisine, meat, chicken, and pastries play a significant role,” Leyla explains. “Actually, we can’t talk about a single recipe for Circassian chicken, [which represents] the dish of a community spread across a wide geography. The recipe and ingredients vary according to the products grown in that region.”
The dish is essentially a paste of shredded chicken with walnut, and takes its place on the table as an appetizer. “The dish is renowned for its creamy texture, nutty flavor from the walnuts, and a harmonious blend of spices. The essential ingredients of Circassian chicken are chicken, onion, garlic, stale bread and walnut oil,” says Leyla, who was kind enough to welcome us in to the Fıccın kitchen and share some of her tips for the recipe.
If you use organic chicken, it adds an additional flavor, which will be boiled together with onion, bay leaf, coriander and carrot or red bell pepper. Coriander is a very significant ingredient in Circassian cuisine, both fresh and dry, touted as a digestive aid.
To add flavor, Leyla adds a high-quality red pepper paste to the mixture. (A good alternative for the pepper paste is paprika.) This small touch adds depth to the flavor as well as some color to the dish. For a delicious Circassian chicken, quality and freshness of the spices used are also crucial.
Recipe: Circassian Chicken
Serves 6-8 people
2 liters of water
1 whole red bell pepper or carrot, peeled
1 whole onion, peeled
3 bay leaves or 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Whole chicken (750 g)
300 g walnuts
3 cloves of garlic
4 thin slices of stale bread or 4 tablespoons of dried bread crumbs
1 teaspoon of sweet red pepper paste or paprika
50 g butter
Salt
Whole black peppercorns
Bring two liters of water to a boil. Add whole chicken, 1 teaspoon of salt, red bell pepper or carrot, 9-10 black peppercorns, onion, and bay leaves or coriander seeds. Let simmer for 45 minutes to one hour. Strain the chicken and save the broth for later in a separate container.
Remove and discard the skin and shred the lukewarm chicken into large pieces with your hands or, if it’s hot, using a fork.
Grind the walnuts, garlic, and bread in a food processor until the mixture is coarsely ground. The walnuts should be in small pieces (not a fine powder).
In a bowl or baking dish, add the walnut mixture to the shredded chicken and sprinkle in 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Then, add one teaspoon of sweet pepper paste to add some color; one teaspoon of freshly ground coriander and just short of 1/2 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper. Both spices should be noticeably present in Circassian chicken. With a ladle, slowly add the lukewarm chicken broth back into the mixture while stirring continuously to create a paste-like consistency. If it’s too watery, gradually add breadcrumbs, and if it is too thick, increase the amount of broth.
For the final touch, mix melted butter with 1 teaspoon of paprika and 1 tablespoon of finely ground walnuts and pour it over the dish. You can also decorate the Circassian chicken with whole walnuts if you wish.
When it’s cooled down to room temperature, it’s ready to be served. You can enjoy your dish accompanied with slices of fresh bread and red wine.
Afiyet olsun!
Lian Penso BenbasatLian Penso Benbasat
Published on February 16, 2024
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