Sign up with email

or

Already a member? Log in.

Trouble logging in?

Not a member? Sign up!

In May, we visited some friends on the beautiful island of Amorgos. While we were driving to the south of the island, in the Kolofana area we came across a very small kafeneio, or traditional coffeehouse. We only wanted to make a quick stop for a cup of coffee and a glass of water, but we ended up getting a lot more than we bargained for.

The owners, Nikitas and his wife, Maria, told us that they were in the middle of the cheesemaking process, and they were taking a break while the first batch was resting in the cauldron in the shed out back. We asked if we could observe the rest of the cheesemaking, and they generously agreed.

Nikitas makes two kinds of cheese in separate stages using 60 percent ewe’s milk and 40 percent goat’s milk. The first type is called tyri, meaning “cheese,” and is the most basic form of cheese you can make. He then prepares mizithra, a fresh, soft cheese made by combining leftover whey with fresh milk in a 4:1 ratio.

Before we arrived, he had strained the milk and then poured it into his 200-year-old copper pot to pasteurize over an open fire. He then allowed the milk to cool down to about 32 to 35°C and added natural rennet, stirred it well and left the mixture to rest for three hours in a warm place.

At the point where we joined him, he broke up the curds by stirring them with the branch of a Judas tree (wild olive branches are also commonly used). Using a mesh basket, he transferred the curds to a larger vessel, draining the residual whey back into the copper pot to be heated up again. Nikitas placed the cheese curds in molds and squeezed them, then added coarse sea salt in layers and set aside the cheese to drain for 24 hours. After it was done draining, he would flip it, sprinkle it with sea salt and allow it to mature for anywhere from a few days to a week.

For the mizithra, he added fresh pasteurized milk to the whey in the copper pot and heated them together, stirring the mixture with a reed that he used to scratch against the interior walls of the pot. He used a spoon to check the consistency of the mizithra, and when it was ready, he put out the fire and transferred the cheese to a plate.

  • August 14, 2014 Galeto Sat’s (0)
    Although there are plenty of bars on Copacabana’s famous Avenida Atlântica – or even at […] Posted in Rio
  • December 26, 2012 Best Bites of 2012: Mexico City (2)
    The past year has been a very good one for food in Mexico City. We’ve had a wonderful […] Posted in Mexico City
  • November 5, 2013 Green Scene (0)
    In terms of greenness, Athens doesn’t even come close to other European capitals with […] Posted in Athens
Ilias FountoulisIlias Fountoulis

Published on October 14, 2015

Related stories

August 14, 2014

Galeto Sat’s: Spring Chickens and Sugarcane Spirits

Rio | By Juarez Becoza
RioAlthough there are plenty of bars on Copacabana’s famous Avenida Atlântica – or even at the beach, at the so called quiosques – very few are worth a visit. Many are just tourist traps. Others are much too expensive. No, the really good bars in Copacabana are inland, along Barata Ribeiro street. That road, along with…
December 26, 2012

Best Bites of 2012: Mexico City

Mexico City | By Ben Herrera
Mexico CityThe past year has been a very good one for food in Mexico City. We’ve had a wonderful time exploring new restaurants, tracking down exciting dishes and meeting great people along the way. There have been so many memorable moments over the past year that it was hard to sit down and come up with…
November 5, 2013

Green Scene: Athenian Gardens of Eating (and Drinking)

Athens | By Christiana Thomaidi
AthensIn terms of greenness, Athens doesn’t even come close to other European capitals with their verdant parks and blossoming gardens. The truth is, modern urban development has not been particularly gentle with this city. Numerous concrete buildings, along with poor road design, hem in inhabitants and visitors with featureless views. Thankfully, there are some oases…
Select your currency
EUR Euro