From the bustling Melikishvili Avenue, we ascended a few steps to arrive at Praktika. The venue features three rooms adorned with white walls, well-worn parquet flooring, and standard-issue tables and chairs. Its resemblance to study rooms is no coincidence; Praktika is situated just a stone’s throw away from Tbilisi State University, the city’s largest university, most of the customers are students, and the space is a former language school.
The café’s humble appearance is not suprising. Praktika, which opened its doors in August 2022, owes its inception to a crowdfunding initiative led by the socialist movement Khma (meaning “voice” in Georgian). Its primary aim was to establish, as they put it, a “people’s café that will provide affordable and tasty food to students, workers, working students and everyone else in need.”
More than a year later, Praktika has undeniably fulfilled its pledge: affordability paired with food worth seeking out. The menu is succinctly presented on a blackboard situated behind the counter, offering an array of both Georgian and international choices, including sandwiches, salads, rice plates, wraps, pasta, and a selection of hummus varieties. Remarkably, none of these options surpass ₾9, equivalent to approximately $3. This stands in stark contrast to the prevailing trend in many eateries, particularly in central districts like Vera, where prices have surged since the outbreak of the war in Ukraine.
“Before, I was simply a student visiting, and this is the only place where we can afford to eat healthy food. We don’t have the financial means to dine at fancy restaurants,” explained Olga Tchelidze, a sociology undergraduate who recently assumed a managerial role at Praktika.
Another key objective was to establish a physical space for the Khma movement. Founded in February 2021, the leftist activist collective is striving for better living and working conditions in Georgia, supporting strikes and other social movements. The group is also running its own campaigns, the latest of which is advocating for free meals for pupils in public primary schools. Alarming statistics from a recent UNICEF survey revealed that a staggering 35 percent of children in Georgia go without a meal during their school hours.
Ina Charkviani, an activist with Khma and one of Praktika’s ten co-founders shared: “We wanted to have a place to meet the people we are struggling for. We thought that the best option could be a café. It worked well in that regard, but during the past year most of our energy went to managing the café rather than to the movement itself.”
Just before the interview, Ina entered the café, carrying a lush green climbing plant from her own home, which she gently placed on a shelf. “[Regarding the] decoration, I rarely discuss with others, it’s free from judgment, and we appreciate the spontaneous evolution of the space. But otherwise, Praktika is run very democratically,” added Ina. Founders and workers meet weekly to talk about issues related to the café. “We all have some ideas and discuss what should be prioritized,” told Olga.
It was recently decided to add a few offers for breakfast which, as Georgia is not really a morning country, is served between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m., after which the main menu becomes available. Arriving just before 2 p.m., we opted for two dishes from the breakfast menu: menemen and a French toast sandwich with tomato and pesto. Menemen, a Turkish classic also known as ჩიჟი-ბიჟი (chizhi-bizhi) in Georgia, involves a simple recipe in which eggs are gently scrambled with tomatoes, pepper and onions. The consistency was flawless, striking the perfect balance between liquid and solid. The taste rivaled the finest menemen dishes we’ve had in Turkey (vegetables – tomatoes, in particular – are usually fresher and tastier in Georgia, where agriculture is less industrial).
A highlight was the bread. Menemen is traditionally savored by scooping it onto a slice of bread, and at Praktika, they freshly bake their bread daily – a welcome culinary touch.
The savory version of French toast was a delightful surprise, proving to be heartier and easier to handle with our hands compared to plain sandwich bread. Notably, the homemade pesto sauce boasted a robust garlic flavor that added a unique flair to the dish. All this, and we had spent less than $6, leaving us completely satiated. Our curiosity – and appetite – piqued, we decided to return a few days later to explore the offerings on the main menu.
The café had a slightly livelier atmosphere this time around. A handful of students played chess within the cozy confines of a small room, while in the dining hall, a group of tech workers was deeply engrossed in a project, huddled around laptops. Praktika is a café but it operates more like a community space. You can read, play, work, or chat for hours without feeling obliged to buy anything. “You can also just take a cup of tea and it costs one lari,” suggested Olga.
On this occasion, we opted for a “summer” wrap and some eggplant hummus, which proved to be a delightful and impeccably seasoned dish. The smoky undertones of the eggplant infused a distinctive flair into this beloved Middle Eastern classic. It arrived accompanied by a modest serving of carrot and cucumber sticks.
A striking twist was the inclusion of a thin, crispy bread, baked on-site as well. This unique bread was crafted from corn flour, in a style reminiscent of mchadi, the small, thick maize bread often enjoyed with cheese in Georgia. Much akin to tortilla chips, this thin maize bread possessed a robustness that made it the ideal vessel for scooping up the creamy dip.
Praktika excels in simplicity and flavor, evoking a comforting, homely atmosphere that owes much to the direct involvement of its cooks in creating the menu. However, the pleasures extend beyond the plate: a curated soundtrack featuring alternative electro or jazzy beats, a compact yet sun-soaked balcony, and an assortment of board games and books await patrons. Additionally, the café pulses with cultural and political fervor when events are scheduled. In late September, Praktika organized a debate on climate change and the Anthropocene. During fall, the space is set to host a reading group dedicated to the exploration of contemporary class struggle through the study of classical and modern texts.
“We are working in capitalism with a socialist idea; it is not very easy when everything is about competition and you are against it,” said Ina. For Praktika’s team, the foremost challenge lies in maintaining financial stability while remaining steadfast in their commitment to affordable pricing. The summer season presented a particularly trying period, with the primary clientele – students – being absent. In response, the team made the decision to launch a second crowdfunding campaign as a means to cover rent expenses. “We prefer to ask for additional money rather than raise prices or decrease salaries,” she added. With the beginning of the university year, Praktika is back in full swing.
Clément GirardotClément Girardot
Published on October 25, 2023
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