Despite its name, Tabernáculo by Hernâni Miguel is not a church. It is a sanctuary and haven of sorts, though, a place where the local community gathers weekly for African and Portuguese food, wine and live music. Ministering to this congregation is Hernâni Miguel himself, one of the vibrant Bica neighborhood’s best-known characters. “Estás boa?” Miguel asks passersby on Rua de São Paulo as they pass his place. And “viva!” is the jovial response Miguel exchanges with old and new patrons who enter through the purple, crushed velvet curtains of Tabernáculo.
The architecture of the restaurant reveals Roman-style archways and a 15th-century cave that doubled as a wine cellar in times past and which inspired the place’s name (Tabernáculo means tabernacle in Portuguese). The space is an eclectic mix of African art, images of renowned African American artists, musicians and thought leaders from the 20th century. Repurposed covers of old vinyl records byAretha Franklin, Nina Simone, and other musicians decorate the marble-top bar, and inspirational quotes dot the walls.
“I opened my bar in 2015,” says Miguel. “When I chose the name for my restaurant, I wanted it to signify something old, different. I tested the menu with people I trusted until I agreed upon the final menu. It was a community effort. Occasionally, I hire talented African chefs for when I host large dinners.”
Cobalt blue tiles decorate the facade of the building at 218 Rua de São Paulo where Tabernáculo is located. A black awning stretches above the calçadas – stone paved sidewalks common in Portugal – and marble tables and wooden chairs make up the outdoor terrace. Miguel is a man with history; just one visit to his bar would not suffice. That’s the charm of Tabernáculo, it beckons you to return for the chance to create more memories. “I’ve owned many bars and restaurants in my career,” he says. “When I found the location that would later become Tabernáculo, I loved it. And I wanted a space that would welcome the local community. A space that would serve African and Portuguese food and offer live music.”
His reputation has earned him the title of Rei do Noite – the king of Lisbon’s nightlife.
“In 1965, I arrived in Lisbon as a student from Guinea-Bissau,” he recalls. “I played soccer. And music was a huge influence in my life. Not too long after I settled in Lisbon, I chose to pursue music.”
Miguel has a permanence in Lisbon’s nightlife that is hard to ignore. It all started in Bairro Alto. “I got together with some friends, Zé da Guiné and Maio, and soon, we changed Lisbon’s nightlife,” Miguel says. “It was an important time in Lisbon in a cultural sense – to have Black business owners creating spaces like we did.” Miguel is candid about the struggles he faced, sharing it was not easy to break such barriers decades ago in Lisbon.
He began hosting parties and DJing, working in different bars in Lisbon. His reputation has earned him the title of Rei do Noite – the king of Lisbon’s nightlife, a trailblazing business owner who helped put Bairro Alto on the map as a place where many Lisboêtas partied. “I made friends with a diverse group of people from different social classes who attended my parties in Bairro Alto,” he told us. “I wanted to create a space for my friends and also for the Black community.” Today, old friends often come by Tabernáculo and recount with impish delight their memories of partying with Miguel many moons ago.
The menu is a journey into Afro Portuguese cuisines. Try the chouriço assado, grilled sausage, a Portuguese sausage flambéed in traditional terracotta clay pots common in tascas. These petiscos or snacks pair well with a cold beverage like beer or a glass of wine. The bacalhau à brás – shredded salted cod, thinly cut fried potatoes, scrambled eggs, topped with olives and parsley – is a staple on the menu. Another highly requested menu item is the arroz de pato: shredded duck with rice, topped with thick cuts of chouriço. We may have ordered this four weeks in a row. It’s that tasty. The Brazilian dish moqueca de camarão is a stewed seafood dish made with coconut milk, coriander, garlic, lime, palm oil, shrimp, tomatoes and served with rice. The menu at Tabernáculo has something for anyone with a curious palate – carnivores and omnivores alike.
Diners can enjoy live music Thursday through Saturday evenings. Miguel’s past career as a music producer means he’s got a knack for discovering talent (he was many years ago approached by Sony Music to help to produce the first hip-hop album in Portugal. Which became a local hit). He’s managed countless bands in his time as producer and concert promoter. Artists from all over the world – from Angola and Brazil, to Cape Verde –have performed at Tabernáculo. There’s always a steady roaster of bossa nova, jazz, pop and soul music each week at this bustling bar in Bica.
In addition to the bar, Miguel organizes an annual celebration on May 25th, Africa Day, honoring African culture, food, film, and music. He invites local artists and vendors to showcase their work.
With many business ventures behind him, a common thread in Miguel’s career is the community he’s built. It’s always been about community. “I enjoy the work that I do. This place is like my home. I have the chance to meet and speak with different kinds of people everyday – no matter the topic. That, to me, is important.”
Before patrons leave for the night, Miguel often shares a shot of ginjinha, a Portuguese sour cherry liqueur. “Every day, I am proud of this place,” he says.
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