As one approaches the central square of Kalyvia, a small village only 10 minutes from Athens International Airport, the irresistible smell of grilled meat fills the nostrils. The whole area is packed with traditional grill houses, and many Athenians will make the 45-minute drive just to enjoy a meal there.
The oldest taverna and one of the most famous is Kollias, which still boasts the traditional butcher shop that gives these grill houses their Greek name (hasapotaverna, or “butcher taverna”).
Anastasios Kollias opened the place in 1930 just up the road, but it gradually became too small to accommodate the growing clientele, so it took its current spot on the square in 1991. The two sons of Anastasios, Georgios and Christos, continued their father’s good work from 1973 up until a few years ago, when their two daughters with their husbands took over.
The inside area is unexceptional, typical for this kind of restaurant, and can get very noisy when crowded. In the summertime, or when the weather is nice, one can also sit on the square outside, next to the beautiful stone-built church of Panagia Evaggelistria. This pretty location makes Kollias a popular venue among families, as children have room to roam around without getting underfoot.
Dimitris, one of the current owners, is very proud of the popularity of his establishment, which seems not to have been hit very hard by the economic crisis. “After three generations we still serve the same high-quality food and have a loyal clientele,” he says. “We have big shoes to fill and feel a certain responsibility towards our clients.”
Kollias is widely known for its bifteki (minced meat patty), which, unlike other biftekia in Greece, has no bread or onion/garlic in it. It is composed of just ground beef and chopped tomatoes. Grilled to perfection, it arrives at the table bare and without accompaniments. It is common for meat dishes in Greece to be served without anything on the side, although fries are not uncommon.
The other meat specialties are equally good. The grilled lamb chops (paidakia) come from very young animals and are thick, cooked until slightly pink in the middle and have a relatively mild flavor. Ewe chops (called hondro, or “fat”), on the other hand, are thinner, darker and slightly chewier, with a deeper, more developed flavor. Kokoretsi (lamb offal, mainly liver, wrapped in lamb intestines and then roasted on a spit) is as it should be: crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. Dimitris informed us that they only use Greek meat in the restaurant. Even the beef comes from Serres in Northern Greece. What was really interesting to hear, however, was that Kollias makes a point of paying its grill masters (psistes) extremely well; they can make or break a place’s reputation and in Kollias’s case, the cooks have worked there for many years.
Apart from meat, the menu boasts a good traditional selection of sides: salads made of fresh or boiled greens, dips and tasty hand-cut fries. In the winter you can also try one of their homemade savory pies, such as the spinach pie or cheese pie. “Everything is prepared on the day, even the salads,” Dimitris says. “We only make tzatziki a day ahead, because it needs time to mature and develop its flavors”.
At the end of the meal a large clay pot filled with traditional sheep’s yogurt comes to every table together with quince and cherry spoon sweets. Syrupy ravani with coconut follows, together with the very reasonable bill.
Kollias, traditional as it is, does have one innovation that sets it apart from many other tavernas: smoking is not permitted (except, of course, the kind caused by the grills)!
Published on June 06, 2016
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