In a city where dozens of new restaurants seem to sprout every week, it’s not an easy feat to stay on the culinary map for more than eight decades. Yet amidst the bustling streets of San Rafael hides a true oasis – a place where time seems to have stopped – a laid-back, family-run institution where fresh seafood and friendly service have been the norm for the past 80 years.
Sitting down to lunch at Boca del Río on a Sunday is, perhaps, one of the best decisions we’ve made lately. The spacious, retro dining room is populated with a healthy mix of families, couples, and a few groups of friends who, like us, know their first mission is to order the ultimate Mexican hangover cure: micheladas and seafood. Afterwards comes a soothing cup of shrimp broth, savory and slightly spicy, keeping us company as we browse the menu.
Choosing from the long list of dishes is like exploring the Seafood All-Stars, reflecting the restaurant’s history and its commitment to staying true to its origins. Founded in 1941 by husband-and-wife team Paulino and Carmen Castillo, Boca del Río began as a roaming seafood cart in Tepito, a neighborhood just north of the historic center. After a number of years and a few address changes, the business grew enough to find its current home in San Rafael, where the vibe and decor have probably not changed much since. Upon our arrival, we enter a dining room with charming green-tiled floors and matching green chairs surrounding formica tables. Behind the wood-paneled bar, Alfredo Castillo, Paulino and Carmen’s son, who took over when they passed away, watches over his guests kindly.
We start with shareable appetizers: a generously sized campechano cocktail – a mix of shrimp and oysters in cocktail sauce – that demands a stack of crunchy Saladitas (a Mexican brand of saltine crackers); a shrimp aguachile with a bright, spicy sauce, and an assortment of quesadillas that, surprisingly to some, don’t have any cheese. These warm, fried dough pockets are stuffed with marlin and dogfish prepared with a savory mix of tomato and onions, and taste even better when topped with the homemade salsa that sits at the center of the table.
The room gets livelier as the afternoon progresses, filling the air with cheerful chatter that harmonizes with the live music, courtesy of a classic Jarocho group playing traditional regional tunes. The soft, cheerful harp transports us to the town that inspired this restaurant’s name: Boca del Río, in the coastal state of Veracruz.
The feast continues with a platter of camarones a la diabla, shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce with a traditional side of rice, and pescado empapelado, a fish fillet cooked in tin foil, keeping it tender and juicy. The dessert cart graces our table with an array of beloved classics to choose from, including key lime pie and our winner: a smooth, sweet flan. We decide to crown the afternoon with a round of carajillos which, perhaps a bit unexpectedly, end up being some of the best we’ve tried recently. The fact that they’re shaken and served in giant copa glasses makes them even more delicious.
By the time the check comes, we’re already planning our next visit. There’s still lots on the menu for us to try – we hear the seafood soup is fantastic, and that chef Edgar Núñez – who heads the legendary fine-dining restaurant Sud777 – is a fan. With any luck, when we come back we’ll find everything just as we left it.
Published on April 29, 2025