Seoul, a city that thrives on reinvention, is a masterclass in culinary adaptation. It bombards the senses the moment you arrive – vibrant neon signs, a crescendo of street sounds, and enticing aromas wafting up from countless food stalls. This is a city where tradition and modernity collide, where ancient culinary techniques are reimagined for a new generation, and where global influences are seamlessly integrated into something indistinguishably local.
On this day-into-evening culinary walk, we taste our way through the backstreets of Seoul’s bustling Dongdaemun and Jongno neighborhoods. From Chinese dumplings to trendy baked goods, we explore how this capital city has taken inspiration from around the world. We’ll encounter the spirit of sharing and tradition, evident in the communal pots of dakhanmari and the generous platters of bossam. And we’ll embrace the innovative spirit that drives Seoul’s culinary world and beyond, from the trendsetting salt bread bakeries to the ever-evolving world of K-pop.
Culinary Backstreets Seoul photographer Junggeun Kim, who goes by Jk, shares his snaps from our newest food tour.
We meet for our Seoul food tour close to this photographic landmark in the heart of the city. The Dongdaemun Design Plaza is a bit of neo-futuristic architecture by Zaha Hadid.
Seoul’s energy can quickly shift from sleek and modern to timeworn and humble. We pass vendors cooking fish on our way to our fist stop.
A busy alley is filled with restaurants serving dakhanmari, a chicken noodle soup that is as far from a can as you can get. While more than one claim to have pioneered the dish, our favorite is a family-run spot run by the same woman for 40 years.
Dakhanmari is a dish that draws on a variety of regional flavors, with a whole chicken served in a broth with green onions and potatoes. Once the meat is finished, knife noodles are added to the broth to soak everything up.
This griddle master transforms simple ingredients into golden discs of bindaetteok, mung bean pancakes. Each pancake is a perfect balance of crispy edges and a soft, flavorful interior.
Specializing in fresh, high-quality Korean beef at reasonable prices, this stop has been a neighborhood institution for decades.
Three generations of dedication are at work behind Ha Myeong-sook as she prepares a feast of fresh Korean beef in this family-owned local favorite.
Yukhoe (beef tartare) has its roots in Korea’s long history of eating fresh, raw meats. The dish was traditionally served to royalty and the upper class during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties, when the availability of fresh, high-quality beef was a luxury. Over time, it became a favorite dish for special occasions. Next to it is some thinly sliced beef brisket, which will make its way onto the tabletop bbq.
A steady stream of customers eagerly wait to snag some warm, chewy chapssal kkwabaegi. These twisted donuts of glutinous rice flour are a favorite quick snack.
Gwangjang Market is more than 100 years old – and Korea’s very first street market. While it’s become popular as a destination for street food, its longer been famous for clothing. Upstairs are wholesale stores, including secondhand or vintage items from the US, as well as a ton of fake brands.
The market is riddled with shops …
… and stalls absolutely laden with food.
We visit our insider stalls, where only locals go, and dine on street food as well as more homestyle Korean eats.
Winter is the season for a taste of Gul Bossam, a traditional Korean dish featuring boiled pork belly (bossam) served alongside fresh raw oysters (gul) and the ever-iconic kimchi. The dish is typically enjoyed as a wrap, with the pork and oysters bundled in crisp napa cabbage or lettuce leaves, then topped with a variety of condiments.
This traditional Korean treat, featuring melted sugar molded into shapes and then carefully carved out with a needle or chopstick, gained worldwide attention after its appearance in the Netflix series “Squid Game”.
As night descends on Seoul and ginkgo leaves fall gently in the rain, we head to our final destination…
A tent bar. We end our tour and start the night off with a round of soju, Korean’s national spirit, and bar snacks under the warm glow of this pojangmacha. From here, the night is yours.
And many more pojangmacha await.
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