Culinary Backstreets co-founder Ansel Mullins visited Seoul this past summer as part of a research trip for our newest food tours. What he encountered was a literal feast for the senses, from the tang of pickled banchan to the smoky barbecue grills to the crunch of raw crab, Here, Ansel shares some of his favorite food memories and a bit of what we can expect from our new coverage in Seoul.
What makes Seoul an exciting and compelling destination for Culinary Backstreets?
The sheer variety of dining opportunities in Seoul make it a paradise for curious eaters. Consider Michelin-starred speakeasy-type ten-seaters to rowdy tent bars serving fried eels, market stalls serving world-famous savory pancakes to the latest fad in donuts, throw in barbecue, dumpling joints, an abundance of fresh oysters, and knock-your-socks-off fried chicken and you’re barely scratching the surface of this venerable chow town.
Do you remember your first trip to Seoul? What were the first sights, smells, or flavors that you remember?
Seoul was an immediate bodyslam to my senses. Piquant chili paste, pungent pickled banchan, deeply funky jang, richly marbled beef in a smoky and loud barbecue joint above a street lined with butcher shops. An unsmiling woman in green work sleeves sat before a giant mound of peeled garlic, preparing for the next contender. This was the first of many meals where I felt like I was on an eating team with the other diners.
What was one of your favorite bites (or sips) from your time in Seoul? Where did it take place?
Korean food features a wide variety of textures that would make most European cooks blanch. “Weird” is in the eye (or mouth) of the beholder, but I travel specifically to challenge my palate, so Seoul was the right place for me. All manner of intestinal tubing and crunchy cartilage charred on a tabletop grill was deeply satisfying and relatively familiar compared to the raw sea squirt and live octopus I ate in the wholesale market. However, ganjang gejang, raw crab marinated in a soy-based sauce, was a revelation. Cool and silky lobes of sweet crabmeat in a savory marinade is fully intoxicating. I’d have licked my fingers if I weren’t wearing plastic gloves provided specifically for eating this dish.
What can CB readers and tourgoers look forward to in this city?
Expect a deep look beyond the few Korean classics that have made the cuisine famous around the world. Yes, there will be fried chicken and barbecue, but so much more. But also the stories behind the food, how it has influenced its neighbors – Japan and China – and also absorbed influences from them. Seoul is a seriously interesting place with its own unique story to tell and we intend to tell it bite by bite.
What is one of your favorite neighborhoods or areas to explore? What’s the vibe there?
I love a good market and Seoul has many. GwangJang Market is famous for very good reason; it’s an excellent place to get your bearings, taste a wide variety of foods without committing to a full meal. Across the road is a street within a garment district where chicken soup restaurants line the street. Nothing but chicken soup. That can keep you busy for a while. These are busy and slightly frenetic market streets and as night falls the tent bars open where you can wile away an evening nursing a beer and watching the crowds swell for a big night out. When hunger strikes, worry not, there’s always fried chicken.
Any other interesting finds, culinary or otherwise?
Anyone interested in Korean food must visit the Kimchi Museum, Kimchikan, in Insa-dong. The exhibits are very well done and many are interactive. There is a Street Fighter-style kimchi video game, hands-on kimchi-making classes and, of course, a tasting room. Spend an hour here and you will learn a lot and probably leave with a deeper respect for Korean culinary heritage.
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