Best Bites 2024: Porto

The award for “Europe’s Best Emerging Culinary City Destination,” granted to Porto by the World Culinary Awards this year, could not have come at a better time. The city is truly “emerging” as a gastronomic hotspot, with an increasingly diverse array of restaurants and concepts opening their doors in response to growing tourism and a steady influx of new residents. Porto has never felt more dynamic.

The latest wave of local projects further underscores this evolution. Chefs, baristas, sommeliers, and other culinary professionals from various nationalities have chosen Portugal’s second-largest city to lay down roots, enriching its food scene and adding new dimensions to a city that still has much more to reveal.

New perspectives from all over the world

Borboleta, a small and cozy restaurant just a few meters from the Crystal Palace – an area with limited dining options – stands out as an excellent example of Porto’s evolving food scene. Yana Korzyn, originally from Russia, was captivated by the locals’ warm hospitality and the city’s hearty cuisine. Here, she met chef and compatriot Kate Plotnikova, and together they decided to create a space where simple yet delicious dishes are meant to be shared. With a focus on fresh, market-sourced ingredients delivered daily (mainly vegetables), Borboleta offers an unfussy dining experience with an almost weekly-changing menu and a warm atmosphere that feels as if you were having dinner at a friend’s house. Their “vitello tomato” – yes, you read that right – has become a classic: a rare cut of tender veal paired with a light, delicately acidic tomato sauce.

Like Korzyn and Plotnikova, many others have been drawn to Porto, which has become a hub for international entrepreneurs reshaping the city’s culinary and cultural landscape. Take Venn Canteen, for instance, founded by three partners from different parts of the world: Snider (Goa), Monika (Poland), and Julian (Germany). Located on the bustling Fernandes Tomás Street, this vegetarian haven began as a delivery service before evolving into a cozy brick-and-mortar eatery. With its vibrant dishes and unwavering commitment to sustainability, Venn Canteen embodies the creative spirit thriving in Porto today. One of our favorites is the polenta made with Reinette apples, crisped fresh sage, and charred leeks.

Caffeine fix

Then there’s Yvonne Spresny and Morgan von Mantripp, the duo behind Vonn & Vonnie. Originally from different parts of northern Europe – Wales and Germany – they met in Asia through their shared passion for coffee. Today, they run one of Porto’s top coffee spots in Bonfim, where they roast their beans in-house. Their menu spans from expertly brewed black coffee to perfectly crafted lattes and cappuccinos, accompanied by an inventive selection of pastries. The influence of Vonn & Vonnie’s beans extends beyond their café, featuring in drinks served at other venues like Soma Café e Cozinha.

Soma, nestled in the city’s Arts Quarter, is a fresh project by three Brazilian partners: Manuel Saraiva, Mona Karenina, and Luíza de Almeida. Designed as a haven for coffee lovers and a great spot for light bites, the sleek, modern space offers dishes crafted by chef Evgeny Alinichenko (of BarraEste in nearby Maia). The menu features inventive options such as egg moqueca – a not-to-miss take on the popular Brazilian stew – and a show-stopping grilled Emmental cheese sandwich with kimchi, complemented by a rotating selection of seasonal dishes.

New talents…

Porto has long been a breeding ground for emerging talent, particularly in the gastronomic world. A prime example is chef Rúben Santos, who now helms the kitchen at Éter, a restaurant and wine bar located in Cais de Pedras – a part of the city gaining recognition for its burgeoning culinary scene, which also includes Vasco Coelho Santos’ acclaimed Semea.

Santos, who honed his skills at renowned restaurants and previously led the kitchen at Paparico (a pioneer in elevating traditional Portuguese cuisine), brings his expertise to Éter. Here, the focus is on harmony between food and wine, with dishes and pairings designed to be shared. The menu is intentionally concise, featuring no more than a dozen items that evolve with the seasons – nearly half the offerings change monthly. Standout dishes include raw beef with tertiary sauce and bone marrow, and grilled broccoli with celery vichyssoise. Complementing the menu is an impressive selection of over 80 wines, primarily small-batch and limited-edition labels.

Further afield, in Pinheiro Manso, chef Daniel Carvalheira is making waves with his newly opened restaurant, Liz. Having worked at two of Porto’s top establishments – Euskalduna Studio (one Michelin star) and The Yeatman (two Michelin stars) – Carvalheira delivers a deeply personal cuisine in an intimate space. Reflecting his Mozambican roots, the menu includes standout dishes like prawn curry, prepared with haute cuisine techniques yet presented in an unpretentious, approachable style.

At Liz, the chef works in a compact kitchen with just one other team member: pastry chef Gabrielle Marçal, who crafts inventive desserts that perfectly round out the experience. Together with attentive service, they’ve established Liz as one of Porto’s most notable new openings, offering excellent food at accessible prices.

…And old classics

Although it is always looking to the future, Porto is also a city that recognizes – and values – its own past, even though the high influx of tourism is creating a certain gentrification in the city’s restaurant scene. More traditional restaurants that have always made the city a gastronomic destination, keeping their identity intact and authentic, are now suffering from competition from new spaces that open almost every week.

But some classics remain undaunted. Overlooking Praça de Carlos Alberto, Casa Expresso remains a steadfast symbol of old Porto. This unassuming tavern retains its traditional charm, serving delicacies and snacks at its stainless steel counter and back tables. The menu features timeless favorites such as beef liver with onions, cod escabeche, and rojão sandwiches – a beloved fried pork speciality. The classic daily specials like alheiras with eggs or tender gizzards offer hearty satisfaction; and are a reminder that some things – luckily – remain the same with the passage of time.

Published on December 16, 2024

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