We like to think of Oaxaca as the heartland of Mexican cooking. All those things that seem so classically and elementally Mexican – corn, chiles, moles, mezcal – can be traced back to the fertile area that surrounds this historic city. This is true about not just ingredients but cooking techniques as well. The use of smoke and fire to flavor food and of the comal – the large circular griddle that is essential for making tortillas – are all deeply connected with the Oaxaca region and its indigenous people. Oaxaca plays another important role: that of a place where many of Mexico’s traditional ingredients and techniques are maintained and protected. Here, the seemingly simple act of growing a strain of heirloom corn is also a deeply political one, an earthy act of resistance against the forces of corporate agriculture that have pushed Mexican farmers in other parts of the country to change the way they work the land. On this food tour in Oaxaca, we’ll get an edible crash course on the elements that are a bedrock of traditional Oaxacan cooking – as well as on how they are being safeguarded. We’ll go through neighborhood markets and visit home-based restaurants and the stalls of street vendors, stopping to taste some of Oaxaca’s most iconic dishes and street snacks, from memelas to eggs cooked on the comal. We’ll taste local corn in various forms and see how it’s transformed from kernel to tortilla, in the process learning about the key role it still plays in Oaxacan cuisine and culture. Along the way we’ll meet market vendors who have been holding steady for decades and even visit the gallery of a group of young artists who are doing their part to document local life. We’ll end our journey with a meal in a family-run market restaurant, sampling several different types of the city’s most famous creations, mole – a dish that, much like Oaxaca’s rich culinary heritage itself, is the result of numerous ingredients being lovingly and carefully mixed together.
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