Among the small streets and throughout the hidden corners of San Sebastian, young entrepreneurs sow courageous projects that are reshaping how wine is enjoyed in this city. Among them is José Vergarajáuregui, who opened Bodega Klandestina in 2022 in an abandoned car mechanic’s garage nestled in the folds of the Gros neighborhood. In a region tightly bound by tradition, he felt inspired to pave the way for new trends, tired as he was of seeing the same kind of wines served in most of the bars in town.
After years working in advertising, José progressively entered the hospitality business: first, with the launch of Amaiketako (a brand for canned goods, cured meats and cheeses and other food items crafted by local artisans), and later, opening several small bars and restaurants between Madrid and San Sebastian. It was the Covid-19 pandemic that changed everything: facing what soon became an irreversible storm (especially for small business owners like him), all his bets abruptly sank. He swam to the shore and changed his life course, investing what was left in his pockets into the one thing that suddenly but deeply interested him: natural wines.
During the lockdown – and perhaps as a way not to go stir-crazy – he had started asking a French distributor (who used to supply the champagne he sold in his different businesses) for wines to try at home: “We were all confined, so I thought I could at least take the chance to try different stuff and even learn something,” he recalls. “I first asked for six bottles, then for six more, and so on… I fell in love with natural wines made by small producers that manage, with no (or little) intervention, to express authenticity. It was clear to me I could transform that spark into something.”
And so he did. In Bodega Klandestina, José’s charm and knowledge are able to shine, focusing on a display of wines he collects from different regions (in Spain and around Europe), giving credit to the young entrepreneurs that, like him, are now pushing for this burgeoning category in San Sebastian, defying the obsession with the precepts of iconic denominations of origin or big, historical wineries.
“It strikes me to see, in a city like this, where cuisine has evolved so much on an international level, how wine menus remain so traditional,” explains José, excited to act as a distributor for local restaurants and to connect with the natural wine movement, embraced by those who defend a sustainable agriculture, biodiversity principles, or a greater ecosystem balance.
Between the two floors of Klandestina, where bottles and wooden crates sprawl across a rustic floor that still retains hints of its former life as a mechanic’s shop, and where now 250 references of exceptional wines are displayed (mostly collected from Spain and France but which include Italy, Germany, among others), Juan speaks enthusiastically about his project, enjoying to have alternatives that go beyond the typical, and that are never the same, so people can go to Klandestina to discover and not so much to find what they already know.
“We’ve become accustomed to associating pleasure solely with what we already like. But discovering, learning, and tasting new things, even those we didn’t know existed, can be a fascinating pleasure in itself,” explains José, sharing an example of what’s on the tip of his tongue today: an Italian wine from Abruzzo made by a pair of lifelong friends under a project called Lammidia (which in the local dialect means “the evil eye”), made out of Montepulciano grapes with a little of white Trebbiano, all spontaneously fermented, opting to skip additives and filtering, so residual lees and grape skins are indicators of a process that is natural and alive. No wonder, on the front face of the bottle, we see the “fresh” imprint of a hand stamped in red as a symbol of what lies behind all this: artisanal work and dedication. Only a few people will be able to try it, as he doesn’t have enough bottles to distribute or even put “officially” on his shelf.
“Once you start in this field, an enormous respect grows within you for the work of brave individuals like these who make wines that are, above all, honest, with characteristics easily assumed as flaws but which ultimately deconstruct the usual way we interpret wine, demanding great effort, a lot of balance, and intervention, but one that is very different from the industrial,” says José. “Unlike cooks, who can make as many tortillas as necessary in a single day until they get a perfect one, natural wine producers only have one opportunity per year. The risk they take inspires me.”
As we’re in the Basque Country, we asked him about txakoli (the region’s ubiquitous young, acidic wine traditionally made as a white using hondarribi zuri grapes). Considering how often uninspiring mass-produced options are offered in local bars, he invites us to navigate preconceived notions by underlining how much the txakoli industry has evolved, captivating discerning palates with subtle and more curious renditions of the classic white version, as well one made in different styles and using different grapes. “[Today we have] rosé, and also red [txakoli] made with hondarribi beltxa, similar to cabernet franc,” says José, who is puzzled by why there aren’t entire sections dedicated to txakoli on local menus. Doing so, he says, would show “the broad spectrum and potential there is, with options that go beyond what is economically cheaper, to include choices with more personality.”
“Txakoli is a versatile and interesting wine due to its expression of Atlantic climate, its saline note, and acidity. However, as a wine region, it has given little freedom to viticulturists to express its character. There are people doing truly valuable things, starting right here in Gipuzkoa,” he adds. For example: Makatzak Wild Wines, a winery led by Aitor Irazu, in Aia: “He pushes for ecological, regenerative, and biodynamic viticulture in Euskadi’s harsh climate, delivering these values intact to the bottle. The climate in 2023 has cost him astronomical losses, yet he persists, producing incredible wines.” José suggests trying Narrasti for its charming citrusy nose, floral notes and mineral notes. Or Sorkin, whose aromas stray from the stereotype with herbaceous and floral notes rarely found in classics, along with spectacular acidity.”
Klandestina is unique in San Sebastian. In addition to a thoughtfully curated wine shop, the space hosts events, thus fostering a network and nurturing a community of people with shared interests. Disregarding the size or prominence of the producing winery, José goes in search of a different scale and expression of quality, delving into the world of biodynamic, ecological and natural wines, while also stocking beers, kombucha, olive oil and other products that share the same philosophy.
“Simply planning a trip brings me as much joy as the trip itself. Going out to explore, leaving room for the unexpected or unimaginable is fun for me; I enjoy poking around and exploring everything that I can try, taste, smell…That’s what I’d like to share with those who visit Klandestina,” comments José, who awaits guests at the bodega with good music (always) and a corkscrew in hand to open up some nice conversation.
Sasha CorreaMagdalena Staurino
Published on March 21, 2024
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