Porto witnessed a considerable increase in tourism in 2023 – a new record, with over 1.5 million overnight stays, was registered in the first four months of the year in the city. With the arrival of summer, the flow of visitors increased even more, which had an impact on the local culinary scene.
While Porto has not yet reached widespread peaks of gentrification like other European cities (even though some neighborhoods, such as Baixa and Ribeira, are already seeing notable class and ethnoracial changes), we’ve seen an interesting spurt of new openings in town. Upscale businesses and renowned chefs, such as the award-winning Nuno Mendes, are coming to Porto to open branches and test new concepts.
Still, the second-largest city in Portugal tries to balance itself between modernity and tradition, maintaining its authenticity as best as it can. Small independent projects are popping up in different neighborhoods (this is the case in Bonfim, which is going through an interesting moment) with a variety of cuisines that are increasingly more open to the world. It’s no exaggeration to say that Porto has never been in better shape when it comes to gastronomic offerings (and wine bars, of course) – yet another reason (if anyone needs it!) to extend a stay in Portugal.
The Return of the Prodigal Son
Nuno Mendes left Lisbon to establish himself as one of the most successful Portuguese chefs abroad, with a recognized career in London. After opening his sought-after restaurant Lisboeta in the English capital, serving traditional Portuguese food with a twist, he returns to his home country to oversee an exciting project in Porto. Cozinha das Flores is perhaps the city’s most important opening in 2023 and a gift for its locals and visitors. Not only for bringing a world-class chef at his peak of creativity to command a no-frills, innovative kitchen (serving dishes such as the savory turnip pastéis de nata with caviar, which has already become a classic) but primarily for bringing back some vitality to Largo de São Domingos in Porto’s dilapidated historic center. After the opening, the project (nestled in one of the most luxurious hotels in town, The Largo) gained a terrace that completely changed the way the restaurant interacts with the city, with an excellent cocktail bar (Flôr) serving affordable cocktails and a breakfast service that is open to all visitors, not just hotel guests. Proof that luxury does not always have to rhyme with exclusivity. (A step followed by other hotels in the city, such as Le Monumental Palace, which now serves elaborate brunches led by resident chef Julien Montbabut).
A Chef-Driven Approach
Porto doesn’t live on francesinha and tripe alone, as many people think. Like Mendes, other renowned chefs have begun to see in Porto a potential for new concepts (particularly more casual ones), in which they can show their work from different perspectives or to other guests. Creative cuisine determines the position of another Lisbon-born chef, Henrique Sá Pessoa (from two Michelin-starred Alma) at Vinha, a restaurant that mixes Portuguese dishes and products with an Asian accent. From a la carte options to the seasonal tasting menu, the restaurant (named after the luxury hotel in Vila Nova de Gaia) is an excellent opportunity to get to know the work of the globe-trotter chef who also has projects in Amsterdam and London.
Ricardo Costa is another chef recognized by the French guide with his restaurant at The Yeatman Hotel. He is in charge of the kitchen at Mira Mira, one of the 12 restaurants part of the WOW entertainment complex, an actual theme park focused on the wine universe (with museums, stores and more). He serves creations such as lobster à Brás (a typical Portuguese recipe with onion and potatoes, but here replacing the ubiquitous cod with the coveted crustacean), beef croquette with foie gras, and salted cod with bean stew and chorizo oil, providing some different flavor layers to the dish. These are inventive creations in which the local ingredients have a more significant role – not to mention the view of the Douro and Ribeira do Porto from the external terrace.
Asian Reconnection
Perhaps no other chef has invested as much in Porto to create new projects as native Vasco Coelho Santos from Euskalduna Studio, one of the city’s best and most creative restaurants. He’s been recognized by the Michelin guide, as well as in our previous Porto rounds of Best Bites. After opening a more casual restaurant based on cooking with fire (Semea) and a bakery with serious viennoiserie and sourdough bread (Ogi), this year he decided to embark on a new venture: a Japanese restaurant. The Nikkei concept inspires Kaigi, which presents itself as an izakaya (Japanese tavern) where the aim is to celebrate a meeting between Japanese and Portuguese cuisines. While the products are all local, the techniques come from the eastern country (such as the production of shari, sushi rice, made daily with due tradition). Some recipes celebrate the intersection of the two cuisines, as in the case of tempura, a technique introduced by the Portuguese and later perfected by the Japanese.
An Asian food wave has dominated Porto, which now counts on a series of restaurants from other countries on the eastern continent. Out to Lunch is a pop-up that takes place (only from Thursdays to Saturdays) in a well-known restaurant in the city (Época) to serve typical izakaya dishes and Japanese snacks, such as onigiri, chicken nanban, and okonomiyaki. Bếp Việt pays tribute to Vietnamese cuisine (which is having a moment in the city, with other venues such as Lacadi and Porto Express) mixing street food with more traditional recipes, from goi cuon, rice paper rolls stuffed with shrimp, herbs and pork, to the famous and beloved bánh mì. At Asia Connection, chef João Pupo Lameiras created a pan-Asian menu ranging from duck spring rolls with raspberry hoisin sauce to jiaozi, homemade and steamed Chinese dumplings. It’s a great time to eat with chopsticks in Porto.
Room to Grow
Porto is also a city where small projects can grow freely. After opening his bakery, Farro, a few meters from the famous Clérigos church, one of the most important tourist attractions in the city, chef and baker João Figueira da Silva wanted to think bigger. He decided to transform the space into a small restaurant. Now, a small menu (in which bread is still the star, an effective upcycling of ingredients) is available to customers, including cod with crumbs, small snacks such as pão de queijo and desserts such as rabanadas, a type of Portuguese-style French toast – but please don’t call it that if you don’t want to aggravate the locals.
At A Certain Café, things started as an unpretentious coffee shop. But with natural wines, sandwiches to devour at all hours, and some dishes added to the menu, this small and airy space on Rua do Morgado de Mateus has become more than just a place for a caffeine fix. Artichoke with stracciatella, burrata with broad beans and arugula, these as well as many other creative dishes began to attract the attention of locals and visitors strolling the hip neighborhood of Bonfim. After all, here is where the most exciting projects in the city are currently gathered. Now, the cafe-turned-restaurant also invites chefs from other venues across Europe and promotes the most sought-after pop-ups in the city.
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