Tbilisi’s Lilo district is the place to go to find just about anything at a more affordable price; it’s not only the largest market in the city but also in the entire country of Georgia. However, the downside is its location, situated about 12 miles away from the city center. A few months ago, a friend recommended that we explore a Thai restaurant located in a village close to the market. Although he hadn’t tried it himself, it was said to be well worth the trip. He pointed out the spot on Google Maps, which goes by the name “Thai Restaurant Cooking Home and Farm Vegetable.”
It had only six reviews on Google, with the most recent one dating back to last year, and the listed phone number was non-functional. The only way to confirm if it was still open was to pay a visit in person. So, on a scorching late summer day, we took the metro to the eastern suburb of Varketili and then caught bus 399, which terminated at the Lilo Mall. We navigated through the clothing section of the colossal bazaar, eventually finding ourselves on a road thankfully flanked by tall pine trees. Following our smartphone’s directions, we spotted a hamlet and decided to take a shortcut to reach it. We descended a small hill, crossed a stream, and arrived at our destination – a single-story wooden house with distinctive architecture. A few Thai flags adorned the gate, a car was parked nearby, and faint sounds emanated from a within. It appeared that, at the very least, the place was not closed nor abandoned.
We called out a hello and after a few seconds, we noticed a silhouette rising from the shadows. Soon, Show Mankong appeared to open the door, welcoming us with a warm and inviting smile. He said a few times, “You came here with Google Maps!” clearly impressed by our navigation skills.
Dressed in a broad-brimmed hat, thick glasses, gray t-shirt and flip-flops, he offered us refreshing glasses of water. Our timing was fortunate, as we had stumbled upon Show on a day off from his job as a Thai cook in Tbilisi. However, his day wasn’t entirely relaxed; he had to gather some kale leaves from the garden to supply another Thai eatery in town. Show had arrived in Georgia from Thailand for work two years ago and shared the house with Doa, the owner and a tourist guide, who happened to be away in the mountains with some clients.
In their garden, a variety of aromatic herbs, some unfamiliar in Georgia but essential in Thai cuisine, flourish. Doa and Show receive orders from Thai restaurants and individual customers in town, and deliver these herbs with their car. We also learned that this place had never been a formal restaurant. There were no dishes available for immediate ordering. However, he mentioned that on special request, they could arrange a Thai barbecue evening and host a sort of “party,” but this would require us to return another time. Doa, who would be present then, could offer more insights.
We returned a few weeks later, arriving at dusk to find thick smoke already billowing from the barbecue. Show, still wearing his hat and sandals, heard our approaching steps and greeted us warmly. He informed us that the “Thai-style” barbecue was in progress and invited us to sit down with a cup of beer in the meantime. As a sort of appetizer, he was frying water spinach leaves on the barbecue in a large pan. He prepared several batches of these small, crunchy bites that were utterly addictive, much like potato chips.
As promised, Doa was also there, sitting inside a small shed next to the house, wrapping up a few last calls related to his tourism business. He had been residing in Georgia for 15 years and had spent a decade gradually constructing this house. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, he had operated two restaurants in town and managed four Thai massage studios, while regularly hosting barbecues at his place. However, he could no longer sustain these businesses under lockdown, and now he is in the process of slowly brewing new projects. “I’m saving up to complete the construction and open a guesthouse here,” he said.
When questioned about Georgian cuisine, he could only mention khachapuri, the ubiquitous national cheese pie, as his favorite dish, though without much conviction. In truth, he never quite acclimated to the local gastronomy and has held a special fondness for the Thai dishes he prepared at home.
After rekindling the fire, it was time to put the chicken on the rudimentary barbecue constructed with concrete blocks. Small pieces of chicken had been placed between two wooden sticks, having been previously marinated beforehand in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, and black pepper.
Doa completed his work and we transitioned inside to enjoy the rest of our dinner. Much like the outdoor setup, the interior decoration was distinctly Thai. The walls were adorned with posters of Thai kings, reproductions of crocodiles bearing inscriptions promising luck and success in business, and a small spiritual corner dedicated to a Buddha statue.
Show stepped outside multiple times to check on the chicken; it wasn’t ready yet. “Slow cooking,” he said with enthusiasm. He poured some more beer and also brought out a metal plate filled with fresh herbs from the garden. He picked a few with larger leaves and said, “Similar to wasabi!” Although we had been warned, curiosity got the better of us, and we placed a leaf in our mouths. It was undeniably spicy, but the heat subsided quickly. “It’s good for your body,” added Show.
Finally, our host removed the chicken pieces from the barbecue and placed them on a plate. Unlike the typical Georgian barbecue, where the meat is always well-done, the core of these chicken pieces remained moist while the skin had a char. We savored the tenderness of the meat and the smoky flavor imparted by the grilling process, which melded perfectly with the sweet and sour marinade.
We bid farewell to Show and Doa around 10 p.m. since the last bus from the nearby settlement of Tsinubani was about to depart. They warmly extended an invitation for our friends to join them for a barbecue and an enriching intercultural encounter. By “friends,” they meant anyone intrigued by the experience and willing to make this journey far away from the city center for a taste of tender meat and crispy spinach.
To organize your own Thai barbecue experience, contact Doa via Facebook.
Clément GirardotClément Girardot
Published on September 28, 2023
Related stories
October 25, 2023
Tbilisi | By Clément Girardot
TbilisiFrom the bustling Melikishvili Avenue, we ascended a few steps to arrive at Praktika. The venue features three rooms adorned with white walls, well-worn parquet flooring, and standard-issue tables and chairs. Its resemblance to study rooms is no coincidence; Praktika is situated just a stone's throw away from Tbilisi State University, the city’s largest university,…
March 27, 2023
Tbilisi | By Clément Girardot
TbilisiAghmashenebeli avenue – the main street on the left bank of the Mtkvari River – is well-known for its Turkish eateries and the presence of Barbarestan, a popular Georgian restaurant. But a handful of new food joints have opened recently, serving mainly Indian and Middle Eastern food, and sometimes a mix of both. One of…
July 5, 2022
Tbilisi | By Pearly Jacob
TbilisiFollow a narrow alley radiating off the newly renovated Lado Gudiashvili square whose surrounding rebuilt period houses now exudes the tourist-attracting pastiche pleasantness of reconstructed historic centers, and you’ll stumble upon Uzu House, the sole standing habited ruin left on Saiatnova street. Uzu means “vortex” in Japanese, explains Yamato Kuwahara, the reticent founder of the…
