We’ll go ahead and say it: There’s no other neighborhood in Tokyo quite like Monzen-Nakacho. In a city filled with endlessly explorable districts and backstreets, this neighborhood stands apart for its intoxicating mix, a place where Tokyo’s past, present and future can all be experienced – and tasted – oftentimes on the same street. Part of Tokyo’s shitamachi, the city’s historic old town, which dates back to the 17th century Edo period, Monzen-Nakacho still maintains a laid back and old-school atmosphere that recalls earlier times. Walk along the neighborhood’s streets and you’ll find yourself at the striking Fukugawa Fudo-do Temple, founded in 1703 and where daily fire ceremonies for good fortune still take place five times a day. Continue walking through colorful Monzen-Nakacho and you will come across shop after little shop – the pickle maker, the traditional confectioner, the umbrella shop – that in many cases have been in business for decades. And as day turns into night, the neighborhood comes even more to life, with locals filling up hole-in-the-wall bars and izakayas run by characters who are as unique as the neighborhood itself. On this six-hour food tour, we will go deep into Monzen-Nakacho’s backstreets, stopping into tiny storefronts and then out-of-the-way izakayas and bars to meet the artisans who keep the neighborhood’s bellies – and glasses – full and taste culinary delights unique to the neighborhood, from traditional fishermen’s food to innovative modern cuisine. More than an izakaya crawl, on this walk we’ll also plunge into the spiritual side of Tokyo neighborhood life, eating and sipping our way towards a better understanding of the place rice and sake hold in Japanese culture and religion. We’ll also learn about other classic Japanese spirits and taste some very special renditions of them. To kick the day off, we’ll start with a local specialty made of clams served over rice, served at a small spot located inside the grounds of the historic Tomioka Hachiman shrine, considered to be the birthplace of Edo-era professional sumo and one of the most striking monuments in the area. After exploring the shrine, we’ll walk through a bustling shopping street that dates back to the early 20th century, popping into several old-time food shops and have a taste of a variety of artisanal specialties including pickles and traditional sweets. From there, we’ll head towards the Fudodo Temple to catch one of the daily fire ceremonies. After paying our respects at the temple and taking in the multisensory ceremony there, we’ll do as the locals do and start heading to the neighborhood’s watering holes, where the drinks are accompanied by expertly crafted bites. As the afternoon turns into evening, we’ll have a sake tasting at a kaku-uchi, a liquor store that doubles as a cozy bar, visit a shop that specializes in a delicious umeshu (plum wine), and then – to cap off our night – we’ll hit a local neo-izakaya that specializes in all things tuna and delightfully updates the Japanese gastro-pub experience. Sitting among neighborhood locals over more bites and drinks, we’ll get an even deeper understanding of what makes Monzen-Nakacho the magical place that it is.
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