NAPLES

We’ll begin our day the Neapolitan way, with a cup of thick, piping hot espresso and the city’s signature pastry, sfogliatelle, in a Neapolitan cafe up in Vomero. Here, in this stylish hilltop neighborhood, we will indulge in some of the area’s classic bites. At a bakery we will taste stuffed pagnottiello rolls, followed by delicate montanara, baby pizza. We’ll stop by an artisanal cheese and charcuterie shop for a tasting of Campanian cheeses that go beyond mozzarella. We’ll then take in the serene views from the San Martino terrace, before hopping on the funicular and descending into the bustling streets of the old city below.

Down in Montesanto, the working-class belly of Naples, we’ll get a feel for the beautiful chaos that characterizes local life. At a neighborhood fishmonger we will have a taste of marinated anchovies and freshly-fried fish and seafood, while at a friggitoria with more than a century’s experience we’ll get a bite of fried macaroni, a favorite local specialty. We’ll go behind the scenes at a producer of taralli, the simple yet bewitching crispy snack seasoned with black pepper, and then sit down to soak up some neighborhood life with a glass of crisp white wine from a vineyard near Mount Vesuvius, readying our appetite for a course or two at a classic backstreet trattoria.  We’ll continue into the narrow streets of the Spanish Quarter, shaded by laundry flapping in the breeze, to visit one of the neighborhood’s classic pizzerias on our way square dedicated to the legendary soccer player Diego Maradona, revered here like a saint after he helped bring a championship to the city. As we wind our day down with a limoncello spritz,  we’ll decide if we should go for an artisanal gelato made from buffalo’s milk, or a final bracing coffee – or, better yet, both. After all, this day is all about doing and seeing things both ways.