Fully taking in the complexity — and charm — of Exarchia requires diving into its backstreets. On this day filled with bites, sips and illuminating stops, we’ll do just that, tracing the evolution of the neighborhood through its food culture. Before the central Athens neighborhood of Exarchia became the utopian social experiment and hotbed of political activism that it is today, the area was the equivalent of a college town nestled into the middle of the city. Flanked by the University of Athens and the Polytechnic Institute, Exarchia developed quickly throughout the 20th century as a magnet for students and professors from all over Greece. Cafe culture thrived and a wide range of eateries opened — from student-friendly street food to private dining clubs for academics — to satisfy the diverse cravings of this new educated class. Over the decades, artists, writers, musicians and activists were also drawn to Exarchia, which in the late 20th century was the stage of some defining moments in Greek political activism, solidifying the neighborhood’s reputation as a self-governing, DIY and bohemian oasis in the middle of the city. On this tour, we’ll visit an old-school pastry shop opened in 1915 and a classic delicatessen for a tasting of products from the Mani and Kalamata regions, including olives, artisanal products, and a selection of rare Greek cheeses. We’ll have delicious rustic savory pies like the ones mothers from all over the country send to their children when they are away in college. We’ll visit a beloved diner opened in 1978, known for traditional home-style dishes that require hours of careful preparation, including one of the city’s standout moussakas and sourdough bread. Built around a small indoor garden created by the owners themselves, the space feels like an oasis tucked into Exarchia’s concrete landscape. Along the way, we’ll pass some of the city’s most iconic political street art, visit community-run spaces shaped by local activism, and finish with an epic souvlaki tasting and a special bite at a Cretan canteen rooted in Exarchia’s everyday food culture. As night falls and the bars begin to buzz, you can head home with a deep understanding of Athens’ most complex and exciting neighborhood. Or, like us, you may also find yourself caught up in the spirit of Exarchia, sticking around for one more round (or two) with locals.
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