Codorna do Feio: Rare Bird

Feio, which means “ugly” in Portuguese, is also the fortunate nickname of the owner of one of the most unique bars in Rio. Mr. Feio (his real name is Sebastião) is a former baker who decided 20 years ago to open a botequim, the typical carioca bar. In order to differentiate his establishment from the other botequins in the neighborhood of Méier, Feio decided to serve grilled quail (codorna) – a bird that is not traditional to Brazilian gastronomy. The idea was an immediate local hit.

On weekends, Feio grills the quail on a huge, improvised rack practically in the middle of the street, using a heat gun to keep the coals hot (the grilling takes place in a brick oven indoors during the week). Nobody seems to mind this arrangement – after all, the birds are lip-smackingly delicious. Feio attributes this to the sauce, which is wine-based, as well as to some combination of herbs and secrets that he, naturally, will not reveal to anyone.

Word of this unusual treat spread over the years, bringing more and more customers from all over the city. Nowadays, Feio and his crew cook more than a thousand quails a day for the mob of hungry customers who pack the bar all week long. Besides quail, the bar also serves equally tantalizing pork ribs.

As for Feio himself, he’d be the first to tell you his nickname is a fitting one. But he doesn’t mind – and actually, he quite likes it. It’s part of what put him on the map. “And,” he told us, “what really matters is that my daughter is beautiful. And my quails, as well!”

Published on October 13, 2014

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