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Izmir's culinary record

Fresh seafood, meze and rakı along the seafront (as well as a fierce commitment to secularism) tend to dominate the clichés about Turkey’s third-largest city and its cuisine. But Izmir, wrapped around a deepwater bay, is defined just as much by the migrations and upheavals that have shaped its kitchens, bakeries, and street stalls. The history of this city of 3.5 million is as layered as its food, and the two are inseparable.

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Izmir food tour with Culinary Backstreets

On our Izmir food tour we’ll explore the tangled roots of this Aegean city’s cuisine and culture, enjoying the friendly laid back environment of the markets near the agora and sampling a variety of dishes unique to this city.

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Izmir

Quick Hits: Where to Eat, Drink, and Explore in Izmir

Izmir eats with one foot in the bazaar and the other by the sea. This quick primer covers the old-school meyhanes, neighborhood markets, bars, restaurants, and essential dishes that help define the city’s food culture.

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Izmir

Mahmut Usta: The Soup Counter Built on a Lifetime of Mastery

A family-run esnaf lokantası in İzmir’s Kemeraltı Bazaar known for fish soup, lamb kokoreç, ciğer sarma, tripe with chickpeas, and seasonal olive-oil vegetables from the family garden.

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Izmir

Near Izmir, an Olive Oil Library Celebrates Taste, Memory and Terroir

At the Olive Oil Library of Orhanlı, visitors taste oils from across Turkey and beyond while learning how olive cultivation shapes culture, landscape and memory.

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Izmir

Morning, Noon, Night: Emir Yargın’s Izmir

Emir Yargın’s ideal day of eating in Izmir starts with soup in Kemeraltı, continues with exceptional söğüş, and ends over meze and rakı in Alsancak.

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Izmir

Recipe: Fongos, Baked Spinach and Bread Frittata from Izmir’s Sephardic Kitchen

A staple of Izmir’s Sephardic kitchen, fongos is a baked spinach dish made with stale bread, eggs and cheese, often topped with a soft potato mixture. Shared by Jinet Sidi Sarfati, this traditional recipe reflects a cuisine shaped by care, resourcefulness and respect for every ingredient.

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Izmir

Market Watch: Kemeraltı, Turkey’s Biggest Open-Air Bazaar

A walk through Izmir’s Kemeraltı Bazaar, where synagogues, tea houses, market stalls, and longtime local food vendors reveal the daily life of Turkey’s largest open-air market.

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Izmir

Aegean Vines: A Weekend Trip on Izmir’s Urla Wine Trail

Every spring, when the winter chill still stubbornly clings to our skin in Istanbul, we feel relentlessly pulled to the south. There, the sunshine is unambiguously warming, the wildflowers pop like strewn confetti across the fields, and the sea sparkles like a bright blue promise. And also, there is wine.

Read more

Izmir

The Essentials: Where We Eat in Izmir, Turkey

With its prodigious array of baked goods, penchant for seasonal seafood, and reputation for excellent meze and olive oil-based dishes, Izmir has much to offer the curious and hungry visitor. Skillfully cooked organ meat and other unusual butcher cuts tempt here more than anywhere else, and true to Turkish mangal (barbecue) culture, charcoal-kissed skewers of kebab and grilled meatballs abound. Proudly secular Izmir is just as proud of the flowing rakı and beer in the city’s innumerable bars and meyhanes.

Read more

Izmir

Izmir: State of the Stomach

A deep dive into Izmir’s layered food culture, from boyoz and gevrek to kokoreç and midye, shaped by centuries of migration along Turkey’s Aegean coast.

Read more

Izmir

Recipe: Izmir Köfte, Aegean-Style Meatballs with Potatoes and Tomato

A look at İzmir köfte, the beloved Turkish casserole of meatballs, potatoes and peppers baked in tomato sauce, plus a home-style recipe from food writer Özlem Warren.

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Izmir

Aegean Eats: 10 Must-Try Dishes in Izmir, Turkey

In Turkey’s third-largest city, food is a fierce marker of identity, one where calling a gevrek a "simit" is a minor social offense and keeping tomatoes out of your kokoreç is a local mandate. While its glam big sister, Istanbul, tends to hog the international spotlight (and the mistakenly placed lion's share of culinary acclaim), Izmir is home to its own Sephardic legacies, Balkan influences, and a certain coastal defiance.

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Izmir

Neighborhood to Visit: Izmir's Banging Basmane

To say that the Izmir neighborhood of Basmane is rough around the edges would be an understatement, but there are more diamonds in the rough here than we can count. Next to the central train station, Basmane is just to the east of the vast and vibrant 17th-century Kemeraltı Bazaar and the Hellenistic-era Agora of Smyrna. Yet the neighborhood has a storied history in its own right, one that is as labyrinthine as its cluttered, hazy maze of streets.

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Only in Izmir: Exploring the Seaside City’s Unique Culinary Traditions Featured Image

Izmir eats with one foot in the bazaar and the other by the sea. This quick primer covers the old-school meyhanes, neighborhood markets, bars, restaurants, and essential dishes that help define the city’s food culture.

Mahmut Usta: The Soup Counter Built on a Lifetime of Mastery Featured Image

A family-run esnaf lokantası in İzmir’s Kemeraltı Bazaar known for fish soup, lamb kokoreç, ciğer sarma, tripe with chickpeas, and seasonal olive-oil vegetables from the family garden.

Near Izmir, an Olive Oil Library Celebrates Taste, Memory and Terroir Featured Image

At the Olive Oil Library of Orhanlı, visitors taste oils from across Turkey and beyond while learning how olive cultivation shapes culture, landscape and memory.

Morning, Noon, Night: Emir Yargın’s Izmir  Featured Image

Emir Yargın’s ideal day of eating in Izmir starts with soup in Kemeraltı, continues with exceptional söğüş, and ends over meze and rakı in Alsancak.

Recipe: Fongos, Baked Spinach and Bread Frittata from Izmir’s Sephardic Kitchen Featured Image

A staple of Izmir’s Sephardic kitchen, fongos is a baked spinach dish made with stale bread, eggs and cheese, often topped with a soft potato mixture. Shared by Jinet Sidi Sarfati, this traditional recipe reflects a cuisine shaped by care, resourcefulness and respect for every ingredient.

Bustling Kemeraltı bazaar, Turkey’s largest open-air market, photo by Paul Benjamin Osterlund 

A walk through Izmir’s Kemeraltı Bazaar, where synagogues, tea houses, market stalls, and longtime local food vendors reveal the daily life of Turkey’s largest open-air market.

Urla Bağ Yolu: A Weekend Trip on Izmir’s Urla Wine Trail Featured Image

Every spring, when the winter chill still stubbornly clings to our skin in Istanbul, we feel relentlessly pulled to the south. There, the sunshine is unambiguously warming, the wildflowers pop like strewn confetti across the fields, and the sea sparkles like a bright blue promise. And also, there is wine.

Izmir Essentials Featured Image

With its prodigious array of baked goods, penchant for seasonal seafood, and reputation for excellent meze and olive oil-based dishes, Izmir has much to offer the curious and hungry visitor. Skillfully cooked organ meat and other unusual butcher cuts tempt here more than anywhere else, and true to Turkish mangal (barbecue) culture, charcoal-kissed skewers of kebab and grilled meatballs abound. Proudly secular Izmir is just as proud of the flowing rakı and beer in the city’s innumerable bars and meyhanes.

Izmir: State of the Stomach Featured Image

A deep dive into Izmir’s layered food culture, from boyoz and gevrek to kokoreç and midye, shaped by centuries of migration along Turkey’s Aegean coast.

Recipe: İzmir Köfte, Aegean-Style Meatballs with Potatoes and Tomato Featured Image

A look at İzmir köfte, the beloved Turkish casserole of meatballs, potatoes and peppers baked in tomato sauce, plus a home-style recipe from food writer Özlem Warren.

View all stories
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Curated Izmir Travel Boards

Morning, Noon, Night: Emir Yargın’s Izmir  Featured Image
Izmir

Musician turned YouTube star Emir Yargın starts his perfect day in Izmir with soup in Kemeraltı, continues with exceptional söğüş, and ends over meze and rakı in Alsancak.

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Nuket

Izmir Tour Leader

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Asli

Izmir Tour Leader

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Paul

Izmir Correspondent

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Deniz

Izmir Photographer

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