A short ride from central Izmir, Çamdibi offers a look at the city's everyday food culture, from early-morning Bosnian börek and hearty soups to kokoreç and kebabs accompanied by unexpected seasonal salads.

Since 1967, the Sivritepe family has been serving Izmir-style kelle söğüş, slicing cheek, tongue, brain, and eye fat with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and spices. Today, three generations keep the Kemeraltı institution going from dusk until morning.

Fresh cowpeas simmered gently with olive oil, onion, garlic, and tomato are a late-summer staple of the Aegean table. This version, inspired by Kısmet Lokantası in Izmir, is served cool with lemon and yogurt.