Since 1967, the Sivritepe family has been serving Izmir-style kelle söğüş, slicing cheek, tongue, brain, and eye fat with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and spices. Today, three generations keep the Kemeraltı institution going from dusk until morning.

Fresh cowpeas simmered gently with olive oil, onion, garlic, and tomato are a late-summer staple of the Aegean table. This version, inspired by Kısmet Lokantası in Izmir, is served cool with lemon and yogurt.

From a tiny shop in Kemeraltı, Elgani Ezmecizade sends its almond, walnut, and pistachio pastes around the world. Behind them lies generations of confectionery knowledge, carefully sourced ingredients, and a family determined to keep the craft in its own hands.