Fresh cowpeas simmered gently with olive oil, onion, garlic, and tomato are a late-summer staple of the Aegean table. This version, inspired by Kısmet Lokantası in Izmir, is served cool with lemon and yogurt.

From a tiny shop in Kemeraltı, Elgani Ezmecizade sends its almond, walnut, and pistachio pastes around the world. Behind them lies generations of confectionery knowledge, carefully sourced ingredients, and a family determined to keep the craft in its own hands.

Izmir eats with one foot in the bazaar and the other by the sea. This quick primer covers the old-school meyhanes, neighborhood markets, bars, restaurants, and essential dishes that help define the city’s food culture.