Since 1967, the Sivritepe family has been serving Izmir-style kelle söğüş, slicing cheek, tongue, brain, and eye fat with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and spices. Today, three generations keep the Kemeraltı institution going from dusk until morning.

Fresh cowpeas simmered gently with olive oil, onion, garlic, and tomato are a late-summer staple of the Aegean table. This version, inspired by Kısmet Lokantası in Izmir, is served cool with lemon and yogurt.

After 22 years away from the grill, Selim Ceylan returned to his family’s trade in Kemeraltı, serving charcoal-grilled köfte and a seven-piece offal platter inspired by the craft he grew up around.