“It’s the king of Portuguese gastronomy,” declares Miguel Oliveira. He’s describing pudim Abade de Priscos, one of Portugal’s most infamous desserts, and the dish that is the specialty of his Lisbon sweets shop. Allegedly invented by the eponymous abbot in the 19th century (pudim is a term that refers to a variety of steamed desserts in Portugal), the dish unites a staggering 15 egg yolks, sugar, pork fat, port wine and aromatics in the form of a gleaming, golden ring. It’s easily the most over-the-top dessert in a country of already over-the-top desserts, and is the dish that has captivated Miguel more than any other.

“You can’t call yourself Mexican if you don’t eat rosca de reyes,” jokes Rafa Rivera, head baker and owner of Forte Bread and Coffee in Mexico City. Distracted, he stops grating orange peel long enough to muse about the king’s cake he is making. Only 29, he already has several businesses under his belt, and is about to open a second Forte location in Colonia Juarez. Rafa opened the flagship Forte in the Roma Norte neighborhood, serving up delicious pastries and coffee, with beans from Pólvora Coffee Roasters – where his brother Julián is the lead roaster. (In 2017, Julián won first prize in the Mexican Brewers Cup Championship with his Pólvora beans.)

When I think of Christmas and the festive season, I’m immediately transported back to my childhood. Christmas to a child is something magical – the massive tree lit up and surrounded by gifts, stockings hung on the fireplace, a warm home filled with loving faces. And, of course, food always plays an important role in my memories of the holidays. Even though I don’t come from a very traditional family, certain customs – particularly those related to food – were devotedly repeated every single year with no second thought. Every year during the Christmas season, I realize how much I miss these rituals.

Kuaytiaw khua kai, wide rice noodles fried in a wok with marinated chicken, preserved squid, and eggs, is a dish with undeniably Chinese elements, but is quite possibly one that was invented in Thailand – most likely in Bangkok’s Chinatown. In and around the Phlap Phla Chai Intersection, no fewer than five restaurants and stalls serve the dish, but our favorite is without a doubt Suan Mali Chicken Noodle. The vendors here fry the dish the old-school way, over coals, in lard, finishing by flipping the knot of noodles flapjack-style, resulting in a dish with ample singed bits and a whiff of smoke.

These days, we can feel a change in Barcelona’s food scene. On one hand, the local cuisine is continually enriched with intercultural dialogue, blended recipes, fusion ingredients or crossroads dishes. Frequently, Catalan restaurant owners pair with partners and team members from around the world, fostering the kind of creativity and collaboration that we love to see. On the other hand, Barcelona’s culinary traditions are being reclaimed by a whole generation of trained chefs who glorify their grandmother’s cooking and local recipes, seeking to elevate and share them. Innovation is supported by tradition, and the culinary experience here continues to grow with the addition of sophisticated techniques, an eye toward sustainable and local ingredients and historical concepts.

The food scene in Greece is constantly being enriched. More and more local chefs are opening their own restaurants, many of which have a creative focus on the local cuisine and produce. Seasonality, sustainability, tradition and high-quality ingredients are in the spotlight and traditional cuisine gets to shine with the sophisticated touch of a talented younger generation of Greek chefs. The restaurant scene – especially in Athens – is also complemented by diverse cuisines of other cultures brought into Greece by immigrants who have made their homes here. Authentic dishes from all over the world can now be found in different corners of the city, bringing flavor to quieter, less-central neighborhoods where rent is still affordable as prices rise across Athens.

Seems like old times: Dining out in Queens, whether we're grabbing a quick bite or sitting down for a meal, is nearly as exciting a prospect in late 2023 as it was in the first few months of 2020, before the arrival of the Covid-19 pandemic. Yes, serendipitous encounters with friends are still less likely, and scheduled lunches and dinners are sometimes painstaking to arrange. But when we do get out and about, there are many new restaurants, cafés, bakeries, markets and street vendors to discover, many new dishes to try, many old favorites to revisit. We keep a list (it gets longer all the time), and we imagine you do, too. Here are a few of our recent favorites for you to keep in mind.

In 2023 Naples boomed with tourism once again – every corner of the city was crowded with people. This post-Covid explosion of tourism runs the risk of distorting this historical city: an abnormal increase in vacation rentals and B&Bs has expelled many Neapolitans from the Historic Center, threatening the local market for traditional activities, goods and services. The city administration is taking action by limiting permits for new holiday homes and even pizzerias. We took advantage of this year to search out special places old and new, taking time to venture off the beaten track and finding solace in small corners of peace and gastronomic pleasure that only Naples can provide.

Culinarily speaking, 2023 was irreverent and loud. It tasted like salty melted cheese, fried beef, hot sauces, sour lime-flavored water, tropical fruits, and beer – lots of hoppy beer. While Oaxaca’s top restaurants kept it classy and stylish, the groovy craft beer bars, as well as the buzzing market and street food stalls told a frantic story of crowded seats, euphoric clients and scrumptious food and drinks. This year’s Best Bites include recipes, dishes or drinks that proved to us there are no limits or assigned spaces for gastronomic evolution. In the realm of food, true culinary art knows no distinction and no matter where they come from, flavors will be flavors.

Food and memory share an intimate connection that transcends mere sustenance; they weave a tapestry of nostalgia, culture, and emotions. There is an inextricable link between food and how we perceive and recall memories, often evoking vivid sensory experiences that transport us through time. Cultural traditions further solidify the bond between food and memory. Sharing a traditional meal becomes a ritual, a way to honor heritage and forge connections with our past. This is especially true in Marseille. The culinary scene surged here in 2023, marked by a new wave of innovative dining experiences. Renowned for its rich history and diverse population, known as a vibrant melting pot of cultures and flavors, this coastal city has become a playground for chefs and entrepreneurs who are pushing the boundaries of traditional Provençal cuisine.

This year, our Lisbon team was busy exploring place both near and far. Correspondent Austin Bush, who moved to the city almost two years ago, has been able to go deeper – and farther – in his pursuit of food as his Portuguese improves. As a result, the dishes, ingredients and drinks that most excited him this year included those outside of Lisbon, or were things that he wasn't previously aware of, or that took a bit more work to find, and as a result, they were that much more rewarding. Lisbon bureau chief and lead guide Célia Pedroso, meanwhile, managed to explore the world without leaving the Portuguese capital, savoring flavors from Angola and Goa, while also returning to some local classic Portuguese spots that, year after year, continue to provide her with unforgettable culinary memories.

2023 was such an incredibly busy and exciting year for the Mexico City food scene. It felt like every single week, two or three new restaurants or bars were opening their doors. Sometimes, we admit, it even felt like a challenge to keep track – which is a happy problem, to be sure. At the same time, our favorite haunts and timeless classics beckoned, reminding us that, despite the inevitable change, quality will always stand the test of time. As a testament to that statement, we pay tribute to the always creative and delicious Expendio de Maíz, where corn-based surprises lead the culinary journey, as well as the ever-comforting Caldos de Gallina Luis, which brought us back to life more than once during the year.

After this 2023’s surge of tourists across Sicily (fueled, in many ways, by the international success of locally shot series like White Lotus and upcoming Gattopardo), the New Year promises to be a busy one, as more curious travelers are drawn by the stunning landscapes, impressive architecture, and, of course, the delectable cuisine. While some of Palermo’s streets have transformed into tourist hubs with souvenir shops and eateries, it can be tricky to pick out the most authentic spots. However, within the vast expanse of the city, a little exploration and attention can lead to high-quality, tranquil places that truly honor Sicilian food and ingredients, even on the busiest streets.

In New Orleans, the calendar revolves around food as much as it does around Mardi Gras, Festivals and Football Season. From the ripe Creole tomatoes of midsummer to the smokey gumbos of the fall, from oysters to crawfish, we mark our days by degustation as much as celebration. And while we are always down for a good meal and a good time, certain bites from throughout the year linger in our memories. Bites that transport us to other places, to different times in our lives, and that make us smile. Like Popeyes fried chicken at a Mardi Gras parade, or a cauldron of jambalaya at a tailgate, bites that bring joy and comfort and maybe even a surprise or two. So while we’ve eaten too many things to count this year, these are the bites that stood out to us.

This year was one of tragedy and tumult for Turkey, as the devastating earthquakes of February 6 ripped through the southeast of the country, leaving more than 50,000 dead and displacing millions. If that weren't enough, the focus then shifted to highly-polarizing general and presidential elections held at the end of spring, with the economy spiraling ever downward and unofficial inflation rates soaring past three digits. The Turkish lira continued losing value and the prices of so many consumer goods increased every couple of days. The word “expensive” lost all meaning. Having established that gloomy context, the Istanbul food world nevertheless remained resilient. There’s still excitement to be found in the form of excellent spots that further confirm our belief that we could never run out of intriguing places in this sprawling city.