The Clarito is a classic Buenos Aires cocktail of gin and dry vermouth, originally created by legendary Argentine bartender Santiago “Pichín” Policastro.

At the edge of Almagro, Las Violetas pairs Belle Époque grandeur with old-school porteño café culture, from sandwiches de miga to an extravagant merienda spread.

A food crawl down Scalabrini Ortiz, where old-school cafés, immigrant institutions and newer restaurants trace the changing tastes of Palermo and Villa Crespo.