Editor’s Note: We asked author and journalist La Carmina to share her perfect day of eating in Osaka and the spots she’d hit for bites and drinks from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. La Carmina writes about travel, culture and food (especially in Japan) for Travel + Leisure, The New York Times, National Geographic, CNN, Time Magazine, Eater, Fodor’s, Observer, Business Insider, Sunday Times, AFAR, and others. She runs the leading Japan alt culture/travel/fashion La Carmina Blog and won “Best Blog of the Year” from Auxiliary Magazine.
Based in Vancouver BC and Japan, La Carmina is the author of three books (including about Jpop culture and food) published by Penguin Random House and Simon & Schuster, and appears on food and travel TV shows worldwide (Andrew Zimmern Bizarre Foods, World’s Weirdest Restaurants, No Reservations, Taboo, Oddities, The Doctors, Today Show, NHK Japan, and more). La Carmina is a graduate of Columbia University and Yale Law School. You can follow her on Instagram at @lacarmina and LaCarmina.com.
Morning: Breakfast at Cafe Sunshine
I confess that I’m not a big breakfast or sweets person, which tracks with Osaka’s food scene (which tends to be more about savory and late night dining). However, I have to give a shoutout to Cafe Sunshine, which has been flipping fluffy, jiggly pancakes since 1973. This food trend is all over social media now, but Sunshine was the OG diner that made these uniquely Japanese flapjacks. This kissaten has been around for over 50 years. The staff is always friendly, and welcomes foreigners warmly.
Cafe Sunshine is within walking distance of Higashi-Umeda and Osaka stations, which are two of the city’s biggest transit hubs. It’s also close to the youth shopping center Hep Five (with its giant red Ferris wheel and Takoyaki Market), and a variety of trendy shops, entertainment centers and restaurants. The cafe has a cozy, old-school vibe and attracts both tourists and long-time regulars. I recommend coming on weekdays and avoiding peak hours, as the tables can fill up quickly. The large, fluffy hotcakes are a must. Drizzle them with maple syrup or fruit, and try one of the fresh-brewed coffees from around the world.
Noon: Lunch at Daigen
You can’t visit Osaka without trying the famous takoyaki, or battered and freshly-cooked octopus balls. There are takoyaki vendors everywhere, especially in busy Dotonbori, but I prefer the laid-back, old-school vibe of Daigen, a tiny store with a front-facing griddle and no seating. You’ll see hipsters stopping by for a snack at lunchtime, but there’s generally no lineup as there is high turnover and Daigen is not a tourist spot. The elderly owners are adorable, and have been serving takoyaki from their hole-in-the-wall shop for decades.
Daigen is in the heart of Amerika Mura, Osaka’s youth and subculture district. This is my favorite neighborhood, filled with vintage record stores, Goth punk boutiques, kawaii cute pop culture, and eccentric fashionistas hanging out. You can easily walk to Daigen from Shinsaibashi Station.
I’m not a fan of mayo, so I order takoyaki without mayonnaise and topped with a mound of green onions. You can also try takosen, a version of takoyaki smushed between two big shrimp rice crackers.
Night: Dinner at Jibundoki
It’s hard to pick a single spot for dinner, as Osaka is home to so many innovative Michelin-starred and high-end restaurants. However, I gravitate to tried-and-true okonomiyaki, and recommend the savory pancake to anyone visiting the city (it’s a Kansai specialty, after all).
Jibundoki is close to Hommachi station (a very central location with many shrines and hotels), or a short walk north from Shinsaibashi. I love how you can easily wander around Osaka’s major districts and stop for food along the way. The chef and owner is passionate about elevating the classic Japanese pancake with luxe ingredients and preparations, such as by adding foie gras butter and Awaji wagyu to the layers of batter. No wonder Jibundoki received a Michelin Bib Gourmand citation.
The restaurant interior is modern and relaxed, with friends gathered around the large tables outfitted with smoking grill tops. Reservations are required, as Jibundoki is a well-regarded and popular spot for dinner. Trust the chef and go for his okonomiyaki fusion inventions, which may include ingredients like Korean tteokbokki or Italian prosciutto and cheese.
Nightcap: Cocktails at Farplane
Head to the basement of Shinsaibashi’s Parco department store for a cocktail at Farplane, a bar that celebrates Osaka’s fetish-fashion subculture. The staff wears latex outfits and serves psychedelic drinks with floating eyeballs!
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