A small Thessaloniki cheese shop where Christos Kontonikolas sells feta, mizithra, yogurt, kefir, butter, and aged cheeses made from milk sourced near his mountain village of Dryovouno.

In Thessaloniki, food is the clearest expression of the city’s history. From refugee-rooted soutzoukakia and late-night patsas to bougatsa, trigona and old-school seafood, these are the essentials that define how the city eats.

A staple of Thessaloniki meze culture, bouyiourdi is a quick baked dish of feta, tomatoes and peppers, served hot and shared with bread at tavernas and home tables alike.