A quick guide to Thessaloniki’s food scene, from old-school mezedopoleia and working markets to bougatsa, soutzoukakia, and the city’s new generation of restaurants.

In Thessaloniki, food is the clearest expression of the city’s history. From refugee-rooted soutzoukakia and late-night patsas to bougatsa, trigona and old-school seafood, these are the essentials that define how the city eats.

A staple of Thessaloniki meze culture, bouyiourdi is a quick baked dish of feta, tomatoes and peppers, served hot and shared with bread at tavernas and home tables alike.