Around Chuseok, Korean rice cake shops fill with colorful songpyeon, small filled rice cakes traditionally steamed over pine needles. Their ingredients, shapes and fillings vary, but their place at the center of Korea’s autumn holiday remains constant.

At Lakheeoak in Gongdeok, seasonal seafood, ssam, banchan, and Korean comfort dishes arrive with enough sauces and accompaniments to make every bite a little different. Wine, whisky, baijiu, or makgeolli simply add another variable to the table.

When Seoul swelters, these six cold soups and noodle dishes deliver the city’s most refreshing answer to summer. Our mapped-out guide leads to the restaurants serving them at their best.