<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2022/garnachas-la-guera-food-from-tropical-oaxaca/"><strong><u>Tropical Oaxaca: </u></strong></a>At the bottom of a quiet street in Colonia Reforma, a neighborhood located in the northern-central area of Oaxaca City which hides many of the city’s best-kept food secrets, we find Garnachas La Güera. While the area is characterized by its quiet, residential streets, this restaurant is a small paradise where joy, music and good food transport you to the tropics.</p><p></p><p>Garnachas La Güera specializes in food from Juchitán, a village in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, close to Oaxaca’s southeastern coast and the border with the neighboring state of Chiapas. If Oaxaca is a state, Juchitán is like its own country within it. There, among wild rainforest landscapes, time has a different pace and people love to celebrate afternoons together, enjoying a tropical lifestyle, where hammocks, freshly cooked food and cold beers are a must in every juchitecan household. For many more reasons than just food, Juchitán is one of the most authentic symbols of Oaxaca’s diversity: women oversee most economic and familiar matters, the indigenous Zapotec culture is embraced and its language (Isthmus Zapotec) is spoken everywhere. If this wasn’t enough, muxes, (a Zapotec word for people, males by birth who dress, behave or identify as women) have been playing an active role in society for at least 40 years. Although small in surface, this village is a huge example and pioneer when it comes to sexual diversity activism in Mexico.</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2023/obispo-cocina-rural-triangles-of-happiness/"><strong><u>The Tri-Cornered Tetela: </u></strong></a>Throughout Mexico, both foods and drinks are centered around corn, a tendency that’s most evident in Mexico’s wide variety of <em>antojitos</em>, or “little cravings.” Small, portable snacks featuring some variation on the corn tortilla – of which the taco is undoubtedly the most well-known globally – antojitos are one of the joys of Mexican cuisine, and vary impressively across the country’s 32 states. In the southwestern state of Oaxaca, there’s no shortage of delicious antojitos – at breakfast, soft, steaming <em>tamales</em> wrapped in the region’s abundant banana leaves are the name of the game, while night owls have ample opportunity to crunch into a <em>tlayuda</em>, a giant tortilla folded over lots of shredded, mozzarella-like <em>quesillo </em>cheese, then griddled over hot coals until crispy on the outside and molten on the inside. And if you’re blessed with a stroke of luck, you’ll get the chance to sample <em>tetelas</em>, a hyper-local, tri-cornered antojito hailing from Oaxaca’s westernmost region of the Mixteca.</p><p></p><p>Oaxacan food is known across Mexico for its freshness and quality, and within the state, serious eaters sing the praises of Mixtecan food in particular. A rocky farming region boasting rich, high-quality soil, the Mixteca produces corn, beans, fava beans, and squash, and the geography also lends itself to a longstanding tradition of raising goats and sheep. The animals find their way into the region’s delicious, juicy, long-stewed <em>barbacoa</em>, while the corn and beans form the base of those tetelas. And at Obispo Cocina Rural in Oaxaca’s peaceful San Felipe neighborhood, these two Mixtecan traditions come together on one plate.</p><p></p>

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<p>Flor Heras (36), co-owner of the Heras family business El Rito and head chocolatier of Reina Negra Chocolate, wakes up every day with the goal to keep chocolate and mole evolving and resurrecting with the same passion the Mayans put into the preservation of their myths. Founded in 2010 by Flor’s father Luis Heras Cortés, El Rito (which means “Ritual”) started as a brand that sold mole paste and traditional chocolate tablets outside of Oaxaca. Their artisanal processes favored the use of natural and high-quality ingredients, rendering homemade, authentic flavors.</p><p></p><p>El Rito products soon caught the attention of local businesses and customers – due to their success, in 2017, Mr. Heras and his family opened a brick-and-mortar shop. Meanwhile, Flor, who was a passionate barista, discovered the deep similarities between coffee and chocolate processes, and slowly planted the seed which would become one of the most interesting brands in Oaxaca: Reina Negra. Flor specializes in sourcing top quality cacao from community-driven projects with sustainable production and fair-trade practices for use in her own line of artisanal chocolate bars, which she sells in El Rito and in other shops abroad, such as Café Santo in L.A.</p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2022/levadura-de-olla/"><strong><u>Ancestral Kitchen: </u></strong></a>Standing behind the smoke veil rising from the hot clay griddle, Thalía Barrios Garcia roasts dozens of tomatoes of all shades of red with the confidence of a woman who has her future in her own hands. At the early age of 26, Thalía is the owner and head cook of Levadura de Olla, one of Oaxaca City’s most exciting new restaurants.</p><p></p><p>Levadura de Olla’s popularity has skyrocketed in the last few years, likely due to its healthy menu that is friendly to most dietary styles and, more importantly, because it <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/tours-food-tours/tours-oaxaca/2020/earth-corn-fire-tasting-the-roots-of-oaxacan-cuisine/"><u>is deeply rooted in the cooking styles</u></a> of Thalía’s hometown: San Mateo Yucutindoo. A remote village located in the southern mountains of the state of Oaxaca, it is a place where the semi-desert landscapes of the valley, an incipient forest and semi-tropical flora collide, creating one of the state’s most off-the-beaten path regions, both culinary and geographically speaking. The name Levadura de Olla – literally “claypot yeast” ­­– comes from the ferment used in San Mateo to bake bread in clay pots.</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2021/lazdua/"><strong><u>The Best Nieves: </u></strong></a><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)">In Oaxaca, <em>nieves</em> are not only the ideal summer dessert, they also encompass hundreds of years of experience, especially in the Zapotec village of Tlacolula. Nieves could be easily mistaken for ice cream, though they are actually closer to sherbet because of their ingredients (fruit extract) and texture (icier). Lazduá adds a new touch to old family recipes with favorites like the lush <em>espadín tropicoso</em> (pineapple, worm salt and mezcal), lime with spearmint, and almond cappuccino.</span></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2021/slow-drinking/"><strong><u>The Art of Sipping Mezcal: </u></strong></a>What differentiates mezcal is the important cultural role it plays in sacred rituals and special holidays. “Mezcal has a double function, as a ceremonial drink that enhances the sense of community when people drink it together on holidays, and as a source of economic sustenance,” says 33-year-old Felix Monterroza, the fourth generation to make and sell mezcal and the founder of Cuish, a mezcal brand and <em>expendio</em> (a place where they both serve and sell mezcal, and another name for a mezcalería) that has sold a wide variety of high-quality mezcales since 2008 and is another one of the best mezcalerías in town.</p><p></p><p>Located away from the main tourist drag, Cuish has two separate bars spread across a sprawling, semi-open space that has the feel of a large village house, a place where people can rest from the heat beneath the shade with a drink in hand (the huge mezcal glass containers, or <em>damajuanas</em>, scattered throughout only add to the rustic atmosphere). Frequented by an artistic crowd of painters, writers and musicians, the expendio is equally as known for its exhibitions, live music gigs and conferences as it is for its excellent mezcal tastings.</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2020/memelas-de-san-agustin/"><strong><u>Curbside Service: </u></strong></a>In Oaxaca, having a proper, hearty breakfast and also being on the go are not necessarily contradictory things. Memelas de San Agustín, an easy-going spot that has been feeding hungry Oaxacans for at least 15 years, is living proof.</p><p></p><p>This small stall doesn’t have an official name – people just started referring to it this way since it’s located right behind the Iglesia de San Agustín on Fiallo Street. But it’s become a beloved destination for delicious versions of its namesake dish – essentially thick corn tortillas that are pinched around the edges and in the middle, making the texture slightly uneven so that their toppings (and their juices) stay in place – as well as surprising number of other items coming out of what is a streetside kitchen, among them Oaxacan-style empanadas filled with moles and chicken, champurrado (a thick hot chocolate-corn drink) and aguas frescas flavored with hibiscus and horchata.</p><p>Owner Audelia Melgar Cruz started out with a simple stall in November 1984. She only had a small table, a little wooden portable stove (anafre), a comal (a large round griddle, often made of clay), and all the recipes she had learned from her great-grandmother, which included tinga de pollo (shredded chicken cooked with tomato and guajillo), papa con chorizo (potato and chorizo) and, the crown jewel, salpicón.</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2022/aguas-casilda-fresh-take/"><strong><u>Fresh Take: </u></strong></a>The idea of fruit-flavored water might sound strange to foreigners, and unremarkable to most Mexicans (the beverages are common throughout the country, albeit with a more reduced variety). But in Oaxaca, aguas frescas – essentially a mix of fresh fruit pulp, plain water, and some sugar if needed – are synonymous with freshness and excitement, given the selection of different flavors made from the myriad of fruits that grow locally.</p><p>I clearly remember that, after explaining my homework, Socorro gave me a couple of huge glasses of agua de horchata con tuna (almond and rice water with prickly pear), insisting I needed to cool down. As young students, we found her generosity uncommon but kind and protective. “My grandmother always said that one should never deny anyone a glass of water, especially students,” she said back then&nbsp; – and still does. Channeling her grandmother’s generosity, Socorro’s horchata con tuna water took on a new meaning for me, its flavor imprinted deep into my palate’s memory.</p><p></p><p>Aguas Casilda was founded on October 15th, 1926, by Socorro’s grandmother, Casilda Flores Morales, age 16 at the time. The stall was the extension of a business initially started by Casilda’s aunt, a woman known as “María La Horchatera” (María the horchata maker), who used to visit the schools in 19th-century Oaxaca City.&nbsp; María sold horchata water mainly to office workers and teachers and would always give many glasses to the youngest students for free. Young Casilda followed her aunt’s example, but she decided to formalize the concept and set up a tiny stall on the square that later became the Benito Juárez Market.</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2020/ancestral/"><strong><u>Weekend Tlayuda Cravings: </u></strong></a>For many Oaxacans, the weekends are still distinct, mainly because of the pleasurable fin de semana (weekend) meals that allow family and friends to gather, reset and reenergize for the coming week. There is nothing more soothing than informal comfort food, which is often on the menu for these meals.</p><p></p><p>“Although such food is not complicated to cook, on a Friday evening or a slow Sunday afternoon all you want is to chill and forget about cooking,” says Miguel Mijangos, head chef and co-owner of Ancestral, a traditional Oaxacan restaurant located in the picturesque neighborhood of Xochimilco. As the lockdown moved forward, Miguel realized how much he craved the simple traditional Oaxacan dishes normally found in markets, at small family eateries and street carts – meat tacos, coloradito mole, tetelas (triangle-shaped corn pockets filled with beans, cream and cheese) or huevos al comal (eggs cooked on the grill). “At first I thought this craving was going to eventually fade away, but then these dishes were the first thing that crossed my mind as soon as I got up. It is the food I grew up with, the dishes my mother would cook for us on a daily basis, so I understood how deep they run in my eating habits and probably in my customers’ too.”</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2020/tacos-oaxaca/"><strong><u>The Stew Queens:</u></strong></a>The name of a food stall followed by “del Carmen Alto” has a particular ring in Oaxaca, calling to mind a whole world of stands, all of which are located in the two blocks facing the church La Iglesia del Carmen Alto, in the heart of the city’s historic center.</p><p></p><p>It’s not entirely clear why El Carmen Alto is a street-food hub, but it’s probably related to the fact that, back in the 1970s, the Plaza del Carmen used to host a weekly open-air market where people from all over the Oaxaca Valley would bring their produce. This market turned out to be so popular that it eventually moved into a permanent building, named Mercado Sánchez Pascuas, where it still operates today.</p><p></p><p>One of the many stalls to grace this area is Tacos de Cazuela del Carmen Alto, which is located on the corner of Quetzalcoatl and García Vigil. For over 16 years, Reyna Santiago has been wheeling her picturesque stand over to the corner from its nearby parking spot, always occupying the same real estate, and working with two other fiercely sweet women, both family, to feed people from all walks of life.</p><p></p>

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<p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/oaxaca/2023/la-original-cangreburger-fast-food-artistry/"><strong><u>Fast Food Artistry: </u></strong></a><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)">It is 6:30 pm – the workday of most of the taco, quesadilla and memela vendors in the city is over, but “The Artist’s” shift has just begun. Every day, as the dusk light bathes the streets, Caleb Santiago sets up his food cart and by 7 pm, he is ready for another night of juicy hamburgers and hot dogs. Among all the late-night hamburger stalls sprawled across the city, Caleb’s is something else.&nbsp;</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)">Initially known as just “Cangreburgers,” this little SpongeBob Squarepants-inspired cart has been feeding Oaxacans for years. But don't let the cartoonish name fool you – Caleb's burgers are serious business, a meticulous layering of quality ingredients and an array signature condiments. In fact, Caleb has developed a fiercely loyal audience that spans locals, returning travelers, and even the city's own chefs clocking out for the night, all drawn in by the artistry found in his late-night offerings.</span></p>

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