At Oliveira’s Moçambicano in São Bento, Rui Oliveira serves the flavors of Quelimane, from flaky chamuças and matapa to rich crab curry made with crab flown in from Mozambique.

A guide to our favorite wine bars in Lisbon, with standout Portuguese bottles, natural wines, rare grape varieties and excellent pours by the glass.

The current Praça de São Paulo formed in the wake of a disaster: the square was rebuilt soon after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, and serves as a model of the architectural style from that time. More recently, this beautiful yet oft-neglected square has been given a new lease on life thanks to another calamity – the Covid-19 pandemic. Over the summer, chef André Magalhães took over the square’s charming red kiosk – the oldest in Lisbon – and overhauled the menu, filling it with traditional drinks, delicious sandwiches and petiscos. And since the start of November, the grocery store Comida Independente has been organizing a successful farmers’ market in the square on Saturdays, bringing Lisboetas in contact with independent producers and one another – a balm in this strange time of social distancing.