For the rice, Rodrigues uses Ariete, a long-grained, starchy varietal of Carolino from Alcacer do Sal, near Comporta.

“The liquid is very starchy, and that’s where the flavor is,” he explains, of the grain. “The idea is not to be a soup, but a little runny.”

Serves 2

For the deep-fried hake
2 boneless, skinless hake filets (around 300g total)
10ml salt
1 pinch black pepper
30ml milk olive oil for frying
120ml flour
2 eggs, beaten

For the razor clam rice
50ml olive oil
25g cilantro, stems separated and chopped finely, leaves chopped
15g garlic, peeled and minced
500g razor clams
150ml white wine
1/2 onion (around 90g), peeled and chopped
1 bay leaf
240ml rice
3 lemon wedges

Step One

Marinate the hake: In a bowl, combine the hake filets, half of the salt, pepper, milk and a drizzle of olive oil. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Prepare the razor clams: In a deep sauté pan over low heat, heat half of the olive oil and add half of the cilantro stems and half of the garlic.

Sauté until transparent and fragrant, around 1 minute.

Add the razor clams and half of the white wine, increase heat to high, close the lid and cook until the razor clams just start to open, around 3 minutes. Remove the razor clams and strain and retain the liquid.

Step Two

When the razor clams are cool, discard the shells and cut the razor clams into 2cm pieces. Set aside.

Step Three

Prepare the rice: In a deep saute pan over low heat, heat the remaining olive oil and add the onions, the remaining coriander stems, the remaining garlic and the bay leaf. Saute until transparent and fragrant, around 3 minutes. Add the remaining white wine. Add the rice, 750ml of water, salt, and increase heat to high. When rice begins to simmer, reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.

Step Four

While the rice is simmering, fry the fish:

To a saucepan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil until around 2cm high, and heat until just short of smoking. Remove the hake from the marinade. Dust with the flour then dip in the egg. Add to the hot oil and fry, flipping occasionally, until the hake is cooked through and golden, around 5 minutes.

Remove the hake to drain on a paper towel.

Step Five

Serve the rice: After 20 minutes, add the coriander leaves, a squeeze of lemon and the reserved razor clams and liquid to the rice.

When the razor clams are heated through, remove the rice from the heat and adjust seasoning, if necessary. The rice should have a texture between dry and soupy, with a pleasant salinity from the razor clams and a subtle acidity from the white wine and lemon juice. Remove to a plate, pair with the deep-fried fish and serve while hot.