A food crawl down Scalabrini Ortiz, where old-school cafés, immigrant institutions and newer restaurants trace the changing tastes of Palermo and Villa Crespo.

Mica Najmanovich grew up eating farfalaj hot with plenty of fried onion. Her Chauchalaj takes the Ashkenazi staple in a fresher direction, tossing it cold with green beans, spring onion, herbs, feta, and lemon.

At Lula, chef Teo Valentini brings a personal, wide-ranging approach to Mediterranean cooking, with seafood and handmade pasta at the heart of the menu.