A food crawl down Scalabrini Ortiz, where old-school cafés, immigrant institutions and newer restaurants trace the changing tastes of Palermo and Villa Crespo.

Mica Najmanovich grew up eating farfalaj hot with plenty of fried onion. Her Chauchalaj takes the Ashkenazi staple in a fresher direction, tossing it cold with green beans, spring onion, herbs, feta, and lemon.

Cheesy, crisp-edged mbejú becomes a full meal in Jazmín Marturet’s version, topped with prosciutto and a poached egg and served with fried cassava. The recipe comes from the MN Santa Inés chef’s first cookbook, Comida Fusión Popular.