Orzo, which in Greek is called kritharaki (or manestra), is a rice-shaped pasta that is particularly popular in Greek and Italian kitchens.

Carolina Doriti

Interestingly, its name both in Italian and Greek means barley, which would once have been the most commonly used grain in this region of the Mediterranean. Research suggests that this kind of pasta was a substitute for rice, which as late as the 1960s was relatively expensive and hard to get. Orzo is used in traditional recipes, such as giouvetsi, where it is baked with meat, poultry, or seafood. Its use is very versatile; it can be used in soups and salads, while these days in contemporary Greek restaurants, it is often used instead of rice for dishes like kritharoto, which resembles risotto.

Here I make it with mussels, a common shellfish in the Mediterranean and a cost-efficient and easy-to-cook kind of seafood.

In this lovely recipe, I use fresh shelled mussels, as they make a far better broth, but frozen can be used instead. I add a pinch of Greek saffron for both color and flavor; it pairs beautifully with the ouzo and the fennel fronds, which my mum often picks for me in spring from fields near the Athenian suburb where she lives.

Orzo with Mussels, Saffron, and Ouzo

Serves 4

1kg (2lb 3oz) fresh mussels in shells

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 bay leaves

Pinch of saffron threads

6 black peppercorns

2-3 cherry tomatoes

15g (1⁄2oz) sprigs of fennel

150ml (5fl oz) ouzo

1 litre (34fl oz) hot vegetable stock

 

FOR THE ORZO

4 tbsp olive oil

350g (12oz) orzo (number 1: large size)

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tbsp finely chopped red (bell) pepper

3 tbsp chopped fennel fronds

Freshly ground black pepper

 

Clean the mussels, removing their “beards” and discarding any that are broken or do not close when tapped on a work surface.

Place a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and sauté the onion until soft. Add the garlic, bay leaves, saffron, and peppercorns, and stir for a minute. Add the tomatoes and fennel sprigs, stir for another minute, then pour in the ouzo and the hot stock; cover and bring to the boil. Add the mussels, cover, and wait for about 5 minutes until they open. If you find any closed ones, throw them away. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a plate, strain the cooking liquid and keep it warm. Set aside about 12 mussels in their shell for serving. Remove the remaining mussels from their shells and set these aside too.

For the orzo, place a large, deep pan that has a lid over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and lightly toast the orzo for a couple of minutes until slightly golden (this will keep it from turning mushy). Using a slotted spoon, transfer the toasted orzo to a plate. Return the pan to the heat and add another tablespoon of olive oil. Sauté the onion until soft and glossy. Add the garlic and bell pepper and stir for a couple of minutes. Measure 900ml (32fl oz) of the reserved mussel cooking liquid, add it to the pan, and bring to a boil. Add the orzo back in and gently stir. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and gently simmer for about 15 minutes, checking occasionally and stirring, until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Mix in the shelled mussels and chopped fennel fronds. Season with pepper, garnish with the reserved mussels in shells, drizzle with a little olive oil, and serve immediately.

Salt of the Earth cookbook

From Salt of the Earth by Carolina Doriti (Quadrille, 2023) Photography © Manos Chatzikonstantis

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Published on August 02, 2024

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