To say that the Izmir neighborhood of Basmane is rough around the edges would be an understatement, but there are more diamonds in the rough here than we can count. Next to the central train station, Basmane is just to the east of the vast and vibrant 17th-century Kemeraltı Bazaar and the Hellenistic-era Agora of Smyrna. Yet the neighborhood has a storied history in its own right, one that is as labyrinthine as its cluttered, hazy maze of streets.