At Borda Berri in San Sebastián’s old town, Lucía Huezo runs a famously crowded counter while the kitchen serves meticulous Basque dishes made from scratch.

In San Sebastian, talking about food, but above all, about cooking, is the norm. Here, something as small as a gilda is of the utmost importance. To stick anchovies, olives and guindilla peppers on a stick is not enough; together these ingredients must contrast and balance, living up to the gilda’s reputation as one of the city’s most celebrated pintxos. A good gilda comes with a punch of flavor and freshness; an ideal combination of textures and acidity that is eaten in a single bite.

The streets are nearly empty. As light cascades down cobbled thoroughfares, dog walkers shield their eyes and market-goers tow their rickety carts toward Mercado de la Bretxa. The market of San Sebastián sits underneath a square just a pebble’s skip from crashing waves surging up the mouth of the Urumea Itsasadarra River. Lamps glowing red illuminate butchers navigating dangling strings of txistorra, Basque chorizo, while across the aisle, an bright white storefront advertises every imaginable form of bacalao, or salt cod. Tucked in a rear corner, Bar Azkena has been crafting delicate fluffy breakfasts for nearly 20 years. Tortillas, or omelets, stuffed with surprises like squid ink and blood sausage fill the bar counter, necessitating foldout tabletops and overflow seating across the aisle.