Swiss chard pakoras from Gran Dabbang, served with carrot chutney, yogurt and roasted-red-pepper sriracha.

Plot your way through Buenos Aires’s essential wine bars, from tucked-away Chacarita rooms and Palermo rooftops to Retiro design bars and Recoleta classics, with bottles that stretch well beyond the expected Malbec.

Where to find the best empanadas in Buenos Aires, from classic neighborhood shops to regional favorites.