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Malaysia
Milk Street on the Road: Penang
Where
Malaysia
Group Size
8-12 Travelers
Duration
8 Days, 7 Nights
Price
6,750 USD / person
Fragrant with lemongrass, galangal, ginger, coconut and spices, the food of Malaysia’s Penang tells a story of geography, trade, class and time. From the intricately prepared dishes of the Nyonya Peranakan culture to the vibrant hawker stall scene to the farms and fisheries of the rural lands, Penang is a rich classroom for the culinary traveler. Located at the strategic entrance to the straits of Malacca, Penang was once a trade powerhouse, gatekeeping the sea route between the East and the West. As a result, it’s home to many different immigrants and the birthplace of new, blended cultures. One of these is the Nyonya Peranakan, and their historic and contemporary foodways are the focus of our trip with Linda Tay Esposito and Captain Poh Hoo Peng. You’ll make Linda’s family recipes at a cooking school inside a spice garden, cook a multi-course traditional Nyonya Peranakan feast with culinary ambassador Su-Pei, visit historic homes and villages, learn about intricate Nyonya beadwork and fabrics and stroll George Town’s picturesque streets.
To place Nyonya cuisine in context, we’ll also spend time with small producers from many of Penang’s communities. You’ll taste sun-fermented soy sauces, harvest nutmeg and durian at a family farm on the western coast, learn the art of durian tasting, eat roti breads that looks like enormous lace doilies, learn about spices and blend your own curry powder, slurp bowls of noodles from many beloved and legendary street vendors and try your hand making the mesmerizing Kuih Kapit Love Letter Tuile.
Your itinerary
Day 1
Arrive, Feast & Meet Your Fellow Travelers
Our adventure begins! After getting settled in the Seven Terraces, a restored traditional home and shop houses now converted into a beautiful hotel, we’ll meet at the hotel’s acclaimed Kebaya Dining Room for an upscale welcome dinner of classic Nyonya dishes, with a twist. You might start by wrapping your own popiah, a romaine lettuce bundle of blue crab, crispy garlic, and cucumber before a main course of lemongrass curried prawns or spiced fried chicken with finely julienned lemongrass and lime leaf. For dessert, expect a balance of fresh and decadent flavors like a passion fruit semi-freddo with lime and nutmeg or sticky rice balls stuffed with palm sugar fudge and bathed in warm coconut milk. As we eat, we’ll get to know each other and learn about the week ahead.
Day 2
Explore George Town’s History and Street Foods
Today we learn about George Town’s geography, history and markets through its food. We start early with breakfast at the iconic Chowrasta Market, a living testament to the city’s rich history and vibrant culinary scene. From the Hindi word “chauk” meaning crossroads, Chowrasta market was a trading hub during the British colonial era and is now a vibrant marketplace and culinary destination. We’ll have local coffee, kaya jam, toast and eggs before we wander the market sampling dishes with Malay, Indian, Chinese and Nyonya roots that tell the stories of migration, trade, tradition and innovation that define Penang.
Duly fortified, we’ll visit the clan jetties and specifically the Tan Clan. The clan jetties originally centered around fishing and now comprise thriving communities of temples, homes and small businesses. Mrs. Tan will prepare our lunch which we’ll enjoy together nearby.
After an ample break, we’ll gather for dinner in the historic home of international hotelier Chris Ong’s grandfather. Before dinner, we’ll tour the residence, including the wedding chamber and original kitchen, see part of his porcelain collection and hear family stories and the history of the house.
Day 3
Cook with a Nyonya Culinary Expert
After a leisurely morning, we’ll don our aprons to cook with Nyonya culinary expert Su Pei. Su Pei was schooled in the art of Peranakan cooking by her grandmother-in-law and mother-in-law who together taught her over 500 prized family recipes for Northern and Southern specialties. Nyonya cuisine is matrilineal, and because few recipes are ever written down, normally the only way to learn them is via family lessons. Su Pei has decided to become an ambassador for Nyonya cuisine, expanding its reach and she’ll teach us a range of dishes, ranging from snappy stir fries to refreshing vegetable salads, spicy sambals, and rich stews. After a late, long and large lunch, you’ll have the evening free to explore on your own.
Day 4
Blend Spices in a Spice Garden
We depart early to head to the Tropical Spice Garden for a day of exploring, cooking and learning about the herbs and spices that shape Penang’s cuisine. On the way, we’ll stop at Heng Lee Soy Sauce, an artisan soy sauce shop that still employs traditional sun-fermentation methods. We’ll taste some of the 50 kinds of soy sauce made on site and tour the outside facility.
When we arrive at the spice garden, we’ll walk around to see what’s in season and ready for us to use in the kitchen before joining one of the garden’s experts for a hands-on cooking class. We’ll use herbs, banana leaves, soy sauce from Heng Lee, mangos, guavas, blue pea flowers, ginger, and learn how to roast and blend curry powder from scratch. Lunch will be late and when we return to Georgetown you’ll have the evening free. We have recommendations for great cocktails and the best hawker stalls, if you’re hungry.
Day 5
Dive into History and Learn a Traditional Craft
The family, or clan, is the organizing unit of much of Penang’s political, economic and cultural life and today we’ll immerse ourselves in this history. We’ll visit Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi (Khoo Kongsi for short), one of the most distinctive Chinese clan associations in Malaysia and home of the majestic clan house Leong San Tong.
From there, we’ll stop for brunch at a shop specializing in kuih, where we’ll taste these traditional sweets and see how they’re made. We’ll also visit the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, a museum of Peranakan culture. "Peranakan" in Malay means "local-born" or "descendant" and refers to people of mixed Chinese and local heritage. We’ll then stop at a temple before continuing to Su Pei’s home, where she will demonstrate the intricate beadwork traditionally used to decorate Nyonya shoes. The evening will be free to explore on your own.
Day 6
Seasonal Fruit and Giant Lacy Bread
Today we travel to Balik Pulau on the western edge of Penang to learn about farming and the local fishery cottage industry. On the way we’ll stop at Belimbing Cafe for their famous gigantic roti jala and the flaky roti canai. They resemble massive lace doilies and we’ll eat them with plenty of hot coffee and curry.
Caffeinated and full, we’ll drive on to Fortune Wellness, a fruit farm managed by husband and wife team Lee and Evelyn. We’ll walk through their orchards, learn about farming practices and the international economics that shape them, and taste the fruit in season, which may include nutmeg, bananas, ciku and water apples. On our June departure, we’ll also sample different varieties of durian and learn about this famously complex fruit.
For lunch, we’ll visit Pulau Betong’s fish market where we’ll select the fish we want cooked fresh for our meal. We can’t host a culinary tour in Malaysia without learning about belachan, or shrimp paste. This essential ingredient defines the flavor of the dishes we’ve been eating and cooking all week. We’ll visit Chop Kim Hoa to learn about this irreplaceable condiment and the evening is yours to enjoy at another hawker stall or rest in our hotel.
Day 7
Fold Love Letters and Toast the Week
Love Letter Cookies are an iconic part of Penang life and today you get to try your hand at making them. We’ll visit Madam Quah, owner and head baker at Eng Seng Kuih Kapit who will teach us how to make these lovely tuiles using the traditional method of baking over a charcoal stove. The afternoon is yours to pick up souvenirs, visit one of the independent bookshops or museums in town or relax.
We’ll meet up again in the evening to toast our week together over a farewell dinner with Su Pei at her home.
Day 8
Say Goodbyes & Depart
We end our trip in Penang. After breakfast, we will depart for the airport or those who want can stay to continue exploring. Until the next adventure!
Meet the Crew
We are firm believers in the power of local knowledge. Our guides and the culinary masters and other artisans who are part of our trips all deeply reflect that. Meet some of our local heroes:
Linda Tay Esposito
Captain Poh Hoo Peng
Nyonya Su Pei
Justin Lee Hor and Evelyn Lee
Madam Quah Eng Seng
Lo Eng Seng
Where you'll stay
Seven Terraces
This trip’s focus on deeply local experiences and places is also well reflected in our choice of accommodation. We always select boutique and independent places, ones inspired by international standards while staying loyal to the area’s local heritage – that’s the balance we seek for more than a good night’s rest.
Seven Terraces is a restored row of late 19th-century Anglo-Chinese terrace houses located right behind the Goddess of Mercy Temple in George Town. The hotel’s beautiful open-air courtyards and air wells provide natural light and ventilation, while granite slabs repurposed from ship ballast add historic charm. Today, each shophouse hosts two elegant suites, with shared amenities like a lounge, pool, and restaurant.
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Know before you go
PRICING AND ACCOMMODATION
The total cost of this trip is $6,750. For travelers wishing to have single accommodations during the trip, an additional $1,000 supplement will be due at the time of the final payment. A $500 non-refundable deposit per traveler is required to secure space on the trip. The balance is due 90 days prior to the start of the trip.
ACTIVITY LEVEL
Travelers should feel comfortable walking two to four miles each day and remaining on their feet for periods of time. There are a couple of hikes on uneven ground. Be prepared to roll up your sleeves and get hands-on during a couple cooking workshops.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
<p>For flights in and out of Penang airport, we suggest you arrive anytime by 3 p.m. on Day 1 and depart anytime on Day 8. There are also trains from Kuala Lampur (~4 hours). We’ll provide the option of booking additional nights at our Penang hotel before and/or after the trip, and are more than happy to provide suggestions for things to do and see in the city on your own.</p>
INCLUSIONS
• All accommodation throughout the trip in stylish, boutique hotels • Professional guides throughout the entire experience • All meals and drinks included in the above activities • Admission to all proposed activities, locations, and events • Private airconditioned coach for visits inside and outside the center city • A hungry group of Culinary Backstreets and Milk Street travelers, excited to explore all that Malaysia has to offer!
EXCLUSIONS
• Private individual arrival & departure airport transfers • Airfare and transportation to/from the start and end destination • Meals beyond those specified in the itinerary above • Alcoholic beverages other than those served at the table • Accommodations outside those noted, including pre- or post-trip hotel nights • Activities, tours & entry fees not included above • Personal purchases and incidentals at hotels
DIETARY RESTRICTIONS
We encourage an adventurous palate! We try our best to accommodate dietary restrictions, though ingredients cannot always be substituted or omitted from particular dishes. If you have other food allergies or intolerances, please contact us to find out if this is the right trip for you.
NOTES ON ITINERARY
Itineraries and daily schedules are subject to change. We expect to do everything listed in the itinerary, though the order may be rearranged based on weather or other local conditions.
SAFETY AND SUSTAINABILITY
<p>We have reinforced our commitment to sustainability and safety with new guidelines to assure maximum safety of our guests on our trips while maintaining the quality of the experience. All of our experiences are designed to have minimal impact on the community and environment. For more details on our precautions, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="/safety-and-sustainability">read here</a>.</p>
CANCELLATION POLICY
<p>You may cancel 90 days before the start of the trip and receive a full refund minus a $500 per-person service fee. If you cancel on or after 60 days before the start of the trip there is a 50% cancellation fee. On or after 45 days there is a 75% cancellation and fee and on or after 30 days there is a 100% cancellation fee. We highly recommend purchasing travel insurance as we are not able to make exceptions to this policy in cases of family/medical emergency or cases of the trip being canceled (see our <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" class="text-[#781e2a] underline" href="https://culinarybackstreets.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/culinarybackstreets/images_imported/Traveler+T%26C.pdf">Terms and Conditions</a> for full details).</p>
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