At any Portuguese pastelaria, the pastel de nata, Portugal’s famous custard tart, is only the tip of the iceberg. Lisbon, especially, is home to a host of bakeries both traditional and innovative, and a wide selection of sweet treats you can’t leave without trying. From lesser-known convent sweets like the elaborate ovos moles to Brazilian baked goods to chocolate made by master chocolatiers, there’s something for every sweet tooth in this city. Culinary Backstreet has you covered: Our local guides have handpicked the absolute best desserts in town, from pastel de nata and beyond.
Pastéis de Belém: The Original
The iconic pastel de nata spot. In the aftermath of the 1834 Portuguese Civil War, monks and nuns, in a bid to survive, peddled their hush-hush convent recipes. Among the coveted list was the pastel de nata from Lisbon’s esteemed Jerónimos Monastery, snagged by the crafty Pastéis de Belém café. Throughout the 20th century, this pastry climbed the popular charts, hitting it big after Lisbon’s recent tourism boom. No pastéis de nata tour would be complete without a wait outside this now-famous café.
Confeitaria Nacional: King of Sweets
In the sweet landscape of Portugal, a foreign cake reigns supreme, courtesy of this age-old Lisbon gem. Founded in 1829 by Balthazar Roiz Castanheiro, it was his son who installed Lisbon’s first phone line. Besides pioneering telecommunication for urgent pastry matters, he introduced the city to bolo-rei, a sumptuous, brioche-like yuletide treat from Toulouse. While the bolo-rei holds court, the bakery also boasts an array of decadent desserts fit for royalty.
Juliana Penteado Pastry: Creative Newcomer
Brazilian pastry chef Juliana Penteado can be found in her small-but-beautiful bakery in Lisbon’s São Bento neighborhood. She’s become known locally for her signature pastries which, with the creative touch of essential oils inspired by memories of home, are as fragrant and flavorful as they are beautiful. The oils – lavender, geranium, orange blossom, bergamot, ginger, cardamom, pink peppercorns, to name a few – add an intense punch of flavor. Every pastry has a few drops of organic essential oils made specifically for use in food, which Juliana orders from France. She is the only baker in Portugal using essential oils in her creations. In the shop the menu changes every week, with four pastry specials on offer, as well as cookies, jams, and cookie sandwiches.
Nestled in the heart of Alvalade, a district dense with bakeries, Isco emerged in 2018 and quickly became a local favorite. While its variety of sourdoughs are excellent, we love coming for a coffee and pastry. Under the skilled, butter-loving hands of Joana Costa, the dessert lineup promises an indulgent treat. When they have the time, the bakers like to improvise and get creative with the pastries, but thankfully the cinnamon-cardamom buns and light, airy croissants are always on the menu.
Bettina & Niccolò Corallo: Chocolate-Lover’s Dream
In the vibrant Príncipe Real neighborhood, this family-run chocolate haven showcases the world’s purest cocoa. From their hazelnut brownies to 70% chocolate sprinkled with cocoa nibs and local flor de sal, to variants infused with Calabrian oranges or Piedmontese hazelnuts, each bite is an exploration of rich flavor. The café even surprises patrons with their renowned 100% chocolate sorbet and a counterpart hot chocolate, both masterfully void of milk.
Brought to life by the Brazilian-native Laila and her French partner, Gregory, this cafe/market stands out as a unique dessert spot, championing an underutilized and versatile ingredient: cassava. There’s the famed pão de queijo, where cassava’s rustic texture mingles with rich Azorean cheese, paired with the caramel sweetness of house-made doce de leite. Or indulge in their tapioca-based treats, including crepe-like dishes with melted butter, echoing authentic Brazilian flavors.
Casa São Miguel: Regional Selection
Located in Lisbon’s Alfama district, this tiny cafe is something of a living museum of Portuguese pastries. Although the space, a former souvenir shop, was completely renovated in 2019, it has a distinctly Art Nouveau feel via a mint green paint job, touches of stained glass, antique furniture, doilies, china and other grandma-like touches. Yet the centerpiece of Casa São Miguel is undoubtedly its glass case filled with around 30 different pastries and sweets. The impressive selection includes tiny tarts, cookie-like sweets, golden mounds, slices of pie, paper-wrapped mysteries and even a few savory pastries from across the country. The sweet that takes up the most real estate is, perhaps unsurprisingly, the pastel de nata…Yet compared to the commonly found semi-industrial versions, those at Casa São Miguel are less sweet, made using the couple’s own recipe which also includes a relatively hearty pastry crust, and are baked every morning in-house.
Published on August 16, 2024