Join Culinary Backstreets

Sign up with email

[miniorange_social_login ]

Already a member? Log in.

Log in to Culinary Backstreets

Trouble logging in?

Not a member? Sign up!

Book now Give as a gift  US $135/adult
  • 2-7 people  Sant Antoni    ~4.5 hours 11 am, 4:30pm 
    -> Paral.lel  (Tue-Sat)

Quick bite: On this walk along Barcelona’s urban wine route, we’ll be among bodega regulars, eating and drinking our way through some of the city’s most iconic bodegas.

A bodega can be a corner store or a corner bar, or sometimes even a wine cellar with a small kitchen serving refined riffs on traditional Spanish foods. In Barcelona, a bodega is all of these, but most of all it is the beating heart of the neighborhood. Wine barrels, chalk marked with their content’s region of origin, line the walls. Neighbors come in and fill a jug to take it home, pausing for a game of cards, a drink and a bite to eat and some banter. On this walk, as we travel along Barcelona’s urban wine route, we’ll be among those regulars, eating and drinking our way through some of the city’s most iconic bodegas.

During the traditional afternoon “vermouth hour,” we will have our ‘vermut’ done right.

We’ll start by dropping in the historic and multicultural El Raval district, first for a carajillo, coffee spiked with Catalan brandy, at an unforgettable neighborhood haunt. From there we’ll make our way to the more upscale bodegas of the San Antoni and Poble Sec neighborhoods, where tradition is tweaked with a modern touch. Along with sips of hard-to-find wines from all over Spain we’ll also sample some fine Catalan wines and, among other delights, we’ll taste artisanal regional cheeses, modern pintxos (Basque-style tapas), top grade anchovies and octopus fritters paired with a dry house cava. During the traditional afternoon “vermouth hour,” we will have our vermut done right, which means served chilled with only an olive as garnish, an old-time soda siphon bottle ready for the occasional spritz and, of course, a few perfectly paired tapas on the side.

There is plenty of food to call this tour a long, well-lubricated lunch and enough drinks to consider it an extended happy hour. Better yet, we like to call it an invitation into the unique culture of the Barcelona bodega and the barrios that keep this tradition alive.

Fee includes everything consumed on the walk.  Some special features:

Samples wine, vermut, and other drinks from the vineyards Children welcome
Can accommodate a vegetarian or a pescatarian diet Pork is served but can be substituted
Samples fish and seafood Terrain fairly flat

Note: In August, this route will be altered to accommodate summer closings.

Route maps are for planning purposes only.  A detailed confirmation email will be sent upon booking with actual meeting point of your walk.


What is included in the fee?

In addition to your Culinary Backstreets guide, all drink and food consumed on the walk- about 7-8 drinks matched with a different edible specialty- are included in the price.

Why is the Culinary Backstreet tour more expensive than some other walking tours?

Our approach is different than most tour companies. Each of our culinary walks is the outcome of considerable research. We work with academics in the field and our own team of experienced professionals – both guides and local journalists. Our ongoing publishing of articles, from restaurant reviews to features about the intersection of food and culture, constantly feeds new material into the culinary walks, so they evolve and constantly improve. Though costly, we believe that this is how to create the quality experiences we strive for.

We practice honest tourism  and would never accept a free lunch or any sort of commission. On the contrary, we are proud to know that the money spent during the culinary walk goes to support businesses that we believe in, helping to preserve the social and cultural fabric of the cities we love so dearly.

How does the payment process work?

Once you have made a reservation, we require the full $135 fee to be paid in order to complete the online booking. Our online booking system uses Stripe to process secure payments.

What is your cancellation policy?

100% will be refunded if given 1 week notice prior to walk and 50% will be refunded if given 72 hours notice or more.

Are your walks public or private? How many people are on them?

Our walks are 2-7 people and are open to the public. If you would like to do a private walk, we may be able to arrange one for an additional fee. Please contact us at for more information.

Can I get a discount if I join more than one walk?

Yes, we offer a 10% discount to those who join more than one walk. Please email us at if you’d like to join multiple walks.

Are your walks suitable for people with food allergies?

This can vary based on a number of factors, including the food item in question. Please email us at to discuss your situation before booking. This walk can accommodate a gluten-free or a dairy-free diet, please clearly note your dietary restrictions on your booking.

How physically demanding are the walks?

The walk is about 2KM (1.25 miles) of fairly flat terrain, broken up into almost a dozen stops. The streets and sidewalks of Barcelona are quite well kept but we do recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes.

Can children join the walks?

Although children are welcome in bodegas of Barcelona, this tour is designed to be a tasting of alcoholic beverages and is not very suitable for children, in our opinion.

Can you pick me up from my hotel? How will I return, once the tour is over?

Our tour prices don’t include transportation. If you book a tour, you’re responsible for arriving to the pre-arranged meeting spot on your own.

Once the tour is over, we will help you get an authorized, safe taxi to your hotel, or provide directions on public transportation, if you’re interested in that.

I have a ticket for La Sagrada Familia the same day. Can I still join the walk?

If your ticket is at 4:00 pm or later, you can join the walk that starts at 11:00 am and still make it on time to La Sagrada Familia.

How much food will I get to try?

This is really up to you. We generally make between 6 and 9 eating and drinking stops on our walk and try to include some breaks from eating along the way.  We offer a suggested portion size at each stop and you can take our recommendation if you’d like. Our walks often involve sharing food.

Wine Harvest 2019

Naked, free, wild, raw, true, clean… natural wine has many names, except its most obvious one, just plain ol’ wine. There’s no makeup or camouflage, […]

bodega barcelona

Bar Code

Wooden wine barrels with taps, shabby old furniture, noisy antiquated fridges, soda siphons from the 1960s… these are the building blocks of Barcelona’s classic bodegas. […]

Taking time for vermut in Barcelona

On our Bodega culinary walk in Barcelona, we visit the neighborhood bodegas where locals meet up for vermut and wine, as we learn how to […]

Wheel Hospitality

Bars, cafés, taverns and restaurants have historically functioned as meeting spots for all kinds of urban communities, from intellectuals to politicians and artists – revolutions have […]

La Chana

“I missed the traditional foods I grew up with in Cádiz,” said Natalia García, a young woman with dark hair, bright red lipstick and a […]

Out to Lunch

There’s something so soothing about taking refuge in a simple restaurant in the middle of a tough work day. These temples of comfort food dot […]


Just as moments in time can be captured by a photograph, to savor at a later date, so too can the freshest meats and produce […]

Best Bites 2018

From a distance, 2018 may look like the calm after the storm in Barcelona, the tempest of 2017 being the independence referendum and its fallout. […]

El Racó de l’Agüir

El Racó de l’Agüir (“Agüir’s Corner”), a restaurant in Barcelona’s Sant Antoni neighborhood, has been a long time in the making: it represents the life’s […]

traditional restaurant barcelona

La Perla BCN

“The future is the past,” says Salva Serra, quoting winemaker Pepe Raventós, the latest in a long line of winemakers to run the famed Raventós […]

historic bodega eixample

La Moderna

As the food scene in Barcelona continues to change at a rapid clip, with a constant stream of closings and openings, the city’s bodegas are […]

Bodega Carlos

There we are at Bodega Carlos, enjoying a homey and delicious batch of crispy fried anchovies and succulent stewed pork cheeks, when we suddenly hear […]

Bodegueta Cal Pep

Cal Pep is a name you’ll find across Barcelona, but it takes on a different meaning depending on which neighborhood you’re in. Lucio (0) Posted […]

Mercat de Sant Antoni

“I still don’t know where the siphon bottles for the vermut are,” says an employee of Marina, a small bar in the newly renovated Mercat […]

Cal Siscu

Despite the big wooden casks on the wall and the creaky shelves crowded with bottles behind the bar, wine is no longer king at Cal […]

Bodega Bartolí

Bodega Bartolí opened in 1939 as a little bulk wine shop in Barcelona’s Sants neighborhood. Then everything changed for the bodega some 20 years later […]

Bar Ramón

It’s not too often that you find a restaurant in Barcelona where rock & roll, blues and jazz are some of the main ingredients. But […]

Bodega Neus

Editor’s note: We regret to report that Bodega Neus has closed. Bodega Neus, a tranquil, cozy spot on a narrow street in Gràcia, may look […]

La Mundana

Sants is a working neighborhood with an industrial past and a communal present, both of which it proudly flaunts. There are the street names – […]

Bar Bodega Salvat

Some sociologists say that Spanish society and culture can’t be properly understood without spending time in its bars. You can find bars in mountain refuges, […]

Best on Bread

Between two simple slices of bread exists a mind-boggling array of possibilities – something not lost on Spaniards, who have turned sandwich making into something […]


At the beginning, Gelida was just a bodega where Joan Llopart Pujó, who came from the village of Gelida in Penedés, offered Catalan wine, cold […]

La Chana

“I missed the traditional foods I grew up with in Cádiz,” said Natalia García, a young woman with dark hair, bright red lipstick and a […]

Behind Bars

When Edu, owner of the Barcelona wine bar Celler Cal Marino, was growing up in the 1980s in the neighborhood of Sant Antoni, he would […]

Along Barcelona’s Urban Wine Trail

For more than a year, we’ve been trying to find a way to approach the mammoth subject of Spanish wine with a suitable culinary activity. […]

Bodega: Barcelona Barrio Tradition, in Bulk

In Barcelona, it’s Catalan Wine By the Barrel

The wood barrels at L’Electricitat in La Barceloneta, a stop on our Blessed by the Mediterranean walk, are filled with Catalan wine sold to locals […]

Can Vilaró

With all the talk about the benefits of quinoa, chia seeds, goji berries and similar superfoods, we can’t help but be a little taken aback […]

Best Buzz

As we wrote in part one, specialty coffee has really taken off in Barcelona, after a long period of limited options and mediocre to bad […]


Oriol’s face lights up whenever a customer selects his favorite pintxo from one of the 49 different trays, beautifully displayed at Euskal Etxea, the bar […]

Catalan Ice Cream

Editor’s note: It’s Cool Treats Week at Culinary Backstreets, and for our second installment, we head to Barcelona, where turronerías and ice cream parlors serve up traditional flavors made […]

Mercat del Ninot

El Mercat del Ninot opened way back in 1894, but recent renovations have breathed new life into this L’Eixample market. El Bisaura (0) Posted in […]


Why are you seeing colorful, 1960s-era carbonated water siphons everywhere in Barcelona? Because they’re the symbol of our beloved vermut ritual. Sergi de Meiá (0) […]

Coca de Recapte

Coca is a word used in Catalonia and neighboring regions for many kinds of baked doughs and pastries, both sweet and savory. Taralli (0) Posted […]

Lo Pinyol

Bars and literature are like bees and flowers: two separate worlds linked to each other through a symbiotic relationship that benefits both. Sergi de Meiá […]

Bean Week

Known in Catalan as mongetes – “little nuns,” as Catalonia’s oldest kind of beans resemble the pale face of a nun in her black habit […]

Bar 68

Chefs and dedicated diners throughout Barcelona are thrilled to proclaim, “Bar 68 is reborn!” For more than 10 years, this well-known and well-worn dive bar […]

Best Bites of 2014

Editor’s note: The year is coming to an end, which means it’s time for us to look back on all the great eating experiences we […]

Casa Lucio

Editor’s note: It’s Mushroom Week at Culinary Backstreets, and today’s dispatch takes us to a tiny restaurant in Barcelona with a huge appetite for mushrooms. […]

O Meu Lar

Galicia, the autonomous region in northwest Spain, is famous for its extraordinary beef and – with its lengthy Atlantic coastline – an abundance of spectacular […]

Catalan Ice Cream

As you might expect from a city whose weather forecast tends to be sunny, Barcelona has plenty of excellent ice cream options, even as summer […]

CB on the Road

On recent visits to Madrid, we’ve noticed that a new breed of food market has taken hold of the city’s attention. While the traditional kind […]

El Tiet Taver Teca

Ivan Rodríguez Vivancos is el tiet, Catalan for “the uncle,” a nickname given to him by the cooks who worked under him at renowned fine-dining […]


In Catalonia around the summer solstice, we make one of our most traditional liqueurs, ratafía, for which the herbs, fruit and flowers that are macerated […]

Jamón Ibérico

In Spain, pork is serious business; it’s been a fundamental part of the diet here for millennia. Pigs were an important animal on the first […]

The Great Outdoors

The favorite outdoor pastime of most Barcelonans is eating and drinking on a terrace. From the simplest bars to the most sophisticated, multi-starred alta cocina […]


In Barcelona, these are fortunate times we’re living in, gastronomically speaking. We’re blessed with a growing multitude of tapas bars whose humble appearances belie the […]

Barcelona’s Gintonics

Editor’s note: Our third installment in the Global Bar Crawl takes us to Barcelona, where gin continues to be the drink of choice among locals. […]

Morro Fi and Mitja Vida

Morro Fi and Mitja Vida are two relatively new entrants to Barcelona’s vermuteo (“vermouthing”) culture, whose history stretches back to the turn of the last […]


Typically eaten at Christmastime in Spain, turrón (a type of nougat) originated centuries ago. Some historians believe it was a sweet paste with nuts eaten by athletes […]

Catalonia’s White Wines

When we think of white wine in Catalonia, we think of its seemingly endless possibilities. Production of whites here has a 2,000-year-old history. The wide-ranging […]


Mushroom hunting has an irresistible, magical pull. Composer John Cage, an avid mushroom collector, found them an integral part of his creative process, once writing: […]

Bodega Manolo

At first glance, Bodega Manolo seems like the usual wine shop/tapas bar that Barcelona does so well: a solid place to replenish our wine stocks […]

La Pubilla del Taulat

The bodega side of La Pubilla del Taulat’s split-personality operation is no ordinary wine shop. While one wall is lined with hundreds of bottles from […]

La Biblioteca Gourmande

[Editor’s note: We’re sorry to report that La Biblioteca Gourmande has closed.] Atila del Sur Comedor (0) Posted in Oaxaca Mornings in Barcelona (0) Mornings […]

Horchatería Sirvent

Be it kvass in Russia or boza in Turkey, every nation seems to have one of their own, a locally loved drink that to most […]

Spanish Conservas: Gourmet Food? It’s in the Can

In Spain, conservas, or foods preserved in cans and jars, are not simply a matter of economic survival or a source of basic nutrition for […]

La Pineda

It’s almost impossible to pass through Barcelona without setting foot in the Barrio Gótico, a warren of narrow, winding streets and medieval buildings that is […]

La Cova Fumada

Opened in 1944, La Cova Fumada (“The Smoked Cave”) is one of the most beloved gastronomic icons in Barcelona’s port area. Every day, people from […]

Vermuteria Loú

Located on busy Carrer de l’Escorial on the edge of Gràcia, Vermuteria Loú is a tiny, cozy venue that is exactly what we look for […]

Quimet & Quimet

With its high walls lined top-to-bottom with a colorful array of bottles, the tiny Quimet & Quimet, a charming tapas bar in El Poble Sec, […]

Ask CB: Kid-Friendly Dining in Barcelona?

Dear Culinary Backstreets, We will be visiting Barcelona with our children. Do you have any good recommendations of places in the city to eat with […]

El Jabalí de Ronda

Barcelona’s Avinguda del Paral·lel was, for the first half of the 20th century, a bustling boulevard of theaters, cabarets, circus shows and risqué nightlife. Nowadays, […]

Ask CB: Eating Early in Barcelona?

Dear Culinary Backstreets, I hear that Spaniards take their dinner very late. Are there any good restaurants in Barcelona that start serving dinner before 9 […]


De toda la vida is a Spanish expression that basically means “It’s been around forever,” and it’s a sure thing that the locals in Barcelona’s […]

Na Mindona

When Xisca Ferragut left Mallorca (the largest of the Balearic Islands, located in the Mediterranean Sea off the eastern coast of Spain) and moved to […]

Calçots: Not Your Average Onion

As the legend goes, a 19th-century Catalan farmer was out experimenting in his fields when he came up with a new kind of longer, juicier […]

Catalonia’s Magic Mushroom Season

Mushroom hunting has an irresistible, magical pull. Composer John Cage, an avid mushroom collector, found them an integral part of his creative process, once writing: […]

Horchatería Sirvent

Be it kvass in Russia or boza in Turkey, every nation seems to have one of their own, a locally loved drink that to most […]

Cala del Vermut

In many parts of the world, sweet red vermouth is assigned a supporting role on the liquor shelf, a neglected bit player occasionally dusted off […]

 Culinary Backstreets appreciate the importance of showing tourists the ‘real’ Barcelona, unspoiled by cheap imitations and poor mockeries of the gastronomy that have been revered by Spaniards for generations. … Not only will Culinary Backstreets introduce unusual local delicacies but, true to its name, will also lead you away from the ceaseless bustle of La Rambla, into the quiet residential streets of the vibrant El Raval neighbourhood. Read more

Untitled-10 If you want to know where to eat slightly off the beaten tracks or are interested in going for a food walk in asmall group, you must check out Culinary Backstreets. They are the ideal choice if you want to unearth more underground places and experience eating among locals, and tucking into dishes prepared by some of the best cooks. With gastronomy being at the forefront of many a conversations in Barcelona, we met with Paula to find out her favorite places and things to do and see in the city. Read more

 Read about our Bodega walk in Dutch in Mad&Bolig magazine. Lees verder

Book this Walk

Give as a gift