Every Sunday, Praça Paris fills with cooks and communities whose food reflects a far broader Rio than the formal European plaza was built to represent.

At Gebar, four cousins honor their grandmother’s Lebanese cooking with kafta, tabbouleh, kibbeh, hummus with beef and baru nuts, and a Lebanese-inflected prato feito inside Rio’s São José Market.

A tiny pasta and wine shop inside Rio’s Mercado São José, where chef Ellen Gonzalez serves fresh handmade pasta, Asian-inspired noodles, seasonal ingredients, and Brazilian natural wine.