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Best Bites 2024: Palermo

Margherita pizza, Ciccio Passami l'Olio, Palermo, photo by Francesco Cipriano

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Moltivolti, Palermo, photo by Francesco Cipriano

At Moltivolti, a restaurant and coworking space located in the Ballarò district of Palermo, a large wooden panel on which a map of the earth is drawn hangs on the wall. Lines of red thread spread out from each continent, connected to other countries, other cities, other coasts. The threads, hundreds of them, form a tangle, representing human migrations from one part of the planet to another, and the dreams of people who have crossed seas and borders. Above this map read the words: "My land is where my feet stand." This is the Moltivolti motto. The idea was born in 2014 on a beach in Senegal when a group of friends thought of opening a place in Palermo that was both a restaurant and a coworking space – a place that could welcome anyone from anywhere in the world.

Da Andrea, Vucciria market, Palermo, photo by Francesco Cipriano

As the sun dawns over the city of Palermo, warming the narrow streets still dampened by the night, merchants in the old quarter set up stands with their products: plentiful fruits, vegetables, meat and fish await the Palermitans who prefer to do their shopping here rather than in supermarkets illuminated by cold neon lights. At the Vucciria, one of the city's historic markets, Andrea Vattiato is setting up the fish counter where he has worked for half a century. He displays on ice a selection of the best fish the Mediterranean Sea has to offer, and with the help of a hose he wets the fish.

Hama Ghanaian and Sicilian cuisine, Palermo, photo by Ségolène Bulot

Ghana and Sicily may not seem like a natural fit, but they come together perfectly at Hama, a Palermo restaurant that brings the two places’ cuisines together while also offering an edible lesson about Sicily’s centuries-old role as a meeting point between Europe and Africa. The name Palermo derives from the ancient Greek panormos and refers to any place where a boat can be docked easily. As a gateway to Europe, Sicily has been a cultural melting pot for many centuries. Today, this long history of cultural and social interactions is woven into the fabric of the city: as street names, as linguistic particularities, and culinary specialties. Migration from Asian and African countries is particularly evident in Sicilian life, especially here in Palermo.

Location & Contact

FUD

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday 12:00 - 12:00

Friday - Saturday 12:00 - 12:30

Ballarak Magione

Monday - Thursday 08:00 - 12:00

Friday - Saturday 09:00 - 01:00

Sunday 10:00 - 23:00

Casa del Brodo dal Dottore

Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11:00 - 15:00 and 19:00 - 12:00

Trattoria Al Ferro di Cavallo

Monday - Saturday 12:15 - 15:00

Wednesday - Saturday 18:30 - 22:30

Osteria Mangia e Bevi

Tuesday - Sunday 13:00 - 15:00 and 20:00 - 23:00

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